Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Mt Tibrogargen, South East Queensland

The National Parks sign marking the approach to the Western Hiker's Summit Trail on Mt. Tibrogargen. This sign is approximately 400m from the western carpark off Barrs Road.


Jim at the end of the approach track just before the scramble scramble up the first 30m section.

Directing proceedings from the top of the first 30 metre section.

Tibro has sometimes been likened to a 'crouching gorilla.' Aboriginal legend paints another picture as recounted in our information under Mt Beerwah.

DESCRIPTION:

Mt. Tibrogargan is the third highest peak in the Glass House Mountains at 364 metres and is the next biggest mountain able to be legally climbed [after Mt Beerwah]. Mt. Coonowrin [Crookneck] is the second highest peak in the range at 377 metres but is closed to the public due to its difficulty and the unstable nature of its peak.
The Western summit trail of Mt Tibrogargan is a 3 kilometre [1.9 mile] return trek from the western car park. This track is rated by the Queensland government department of Parks and Wildlife as a Class 5 track meaning:
* Steep track with irregular surface and loose stones.
* Considerable exposure to the elements may be experienced.
* High level of physical fitness and flexible-soled shoes with good grip required.


In our experience Mt. Tibrogargan is a great workout with more scrambling required than on Mt. Beerwah. With a little confidence Beerwah can be negotiated as a walk (a steep walk) whereas Tibro is steeper but contains more jagged rock providing excellent hand holds (especially at the start of the climb). In the middle sections of the Western Summit Trail (Hiker's Trail) the track does become more 'crumbly' and due care must be taken.

The track is fairly unrelenting to the summit although safe resting points are available all the way up and down. Ropes are not a usual requirement on this peak however we always carry a short 10 metre length as part of our standard equipment. It is advisable to contact the rangers to check for local warnings such as bushfires or local back burning. Check local weather forecasts and conditions at www.weatherzone.com.au/ or http://mirror.bom.gov.au/weather/radar/. It is irresponsible to attempt to climb Mt Tibrogargen if there is the possibility of rain or high winds. It's steep rock faces require clear weather so do not take the risk of endangering yourself or others if you get into trouble.

The summit of Tibrogargan is much larger than Beerwah and mostly covered with scrubby vegetation averaging 3 metres [10 feet] in height. This severely limits the views except from the summit shoulders and eastern side which offers an ocean outlook over the coastal plains.

LOCATION:

From Brisbane take the Bruce Highway north to the Glass House Mountains Road turnoff (newly renamed Steve Irwin Way) which is approximately 60 km north of Brisbane CBD. You will pass a turnoff to Beerburrum and then begin to see glimpses of the imposing Mt Tibrogargen on the left (approximately 8 km from Bruce Highway turnoff). Slow down as you begin to pass Tibrogargen and look for a large cleared gravel shoulder on the left hand side of the road. This site offers excellent views of the Eastern Face and is popular for photos. The Eastern Face is usually the domain of rock climbers (who use rope) however it is possible to scramble to the summit from this side on the Caves Route (more on this later).

Continue driving past the mountain looking for a brown sign on the left marked '300 metres Barrs Road: Mt Tibrogargen.' Cross over the railway tracks and turn left following Barrs Road for 2.3 km then begin looking for a sign on the left indicating the western carpark. If you pass the Matilda Service Station on the corner of Glass House Mountains Road and Bowen Road you have missed the turnoff to Barrs Road and the western car park and need to turn back.

TRACK NOTES:

Western Summit Trail or Hiker's Trail

A visitors information stand and composting toilet is located near the car park. The western summit trail commences at the northern end (left hand side) of the car park and winds up a gradual track to a viewing station offering clear aspects of Mt Beerwah to the west.

From this point you will notice a large sign indicating 'Tibrogargen Summit Access' to the right indicating the start of the western summit trail. The main track continues to the left offering a 3km circuit around the base of the mountain back to the car park. This track offers some impressive photos of various aspects of this plug from ground level but you want to climb it right?

From the viewing station the right hand trail becomes gradually more uneven as the approach continues to the base of the rock. Similar to Mt Beerwah the most difficult section on Tibro is the first 30 metre scramble at the end of the approach and start of the climb. The first 3-4 metre section can be gained either by scrambling up a prominent crack or picking out some hand holds on the rock wall to the right of the crack and scrambling up. A variety of options exist for the next section but look for the only prominent tree at the base of this section and consider scrambling up from there. The advantage of this route is that the tree does provide some visual security as an unsecured slip in this section would at best result in grabbing or falling into this tree to prevent a 30 metre fall. Not surprisingly extreme care is required during these first two steep sections.

After the first 30 metres follow the well worn track up the western side to attain the summit. As indicated in the Description section, the summit of Tibrogargen is expansive compared to Beerwah and covered with scrubby vegetation which prevents 360 degree views. The best views are gained from the other side of the summit, so when you get to the top follow the track to the other side of the mountain, which is an easy 2-3 minute walk. When you reach the other side, descend carefully on the right hand track 10 - 15 metres to a rocky outcrop offering the best views of the coastal plains and ocean. Obviously care is required in this section as the drop offs are sheer.

Care must also be exercised on the descent where statistically most accident occur. Take your time and try to recognise your ascent route and stick to it. In the middle section of the descent it is easy to follow a prominent track for 10 metres to discover it becomes exposed very quickly causing a retreat. This track branches off the main track (which runs to the right of the exposed track) so remain focused on the descent as the job is not done until your group is all safely down.

NOTE (Oct 2011): Since the recent reclosure of Mt Beerwah many more people are scrambling up Tibogargan, especially on the weekends. I would highly recommend going mid-week to decrease the possibilty of others accidently dislodging rocks from above. My wife was recently hit on the shoulder with a cricket ball sized rock that fell from about 10 metres. If it had come from much further up she may well be nursing a broken collar bone. In my opinion this represents the biggest danger on Tibro and I will be confining future trips to mid-week or after hours. On the Saturday we went (Oct 2011) the car park was full by 7am and there were 50-60 people going up and down, which makes the only summit trail quite busy and greatly increases the amount of rock that gets dislodged. Rockclimbers wear helmets for good reason. If you have to go on the weekend consider wearing a helmet (even though you might feel like a tool). Personally I would not take kids to Tibro on the weekend without helmets as you cannot always protect them from falling rocks.

The Caves Route

Pioneered by the legendary Bert Salmon in the 1920s, The Caves Route should only be considered by very experienced scramblers with some free climbing ability and a healthy respect for elevation. Be under no delusions that this route is steep and exposed, especially in two sections. Most of the activity on the eastern side of Tibrogargen is conducted by rock climbers and some of these groups climb the The Caves Route with rope to gain access to other more vertical (or inclined) sections of the face. This route is usually only regarded as an ascent by scramblers and the Western Hiker's Track is the recommend descent route for all but the most intrepid or stupid.

Access can be gained by commencing from the Western car park by following the approach track to the Western Hiker's Track as explained under Location. Instead of branching off at the sign marked 'Tibrogargen Summit Access' (The Hiker's Track) continue hiking around the circuit track for 1.5 km at the the base of the mountain and then begin looking to the right for a warning sign that marks the 200 metre approach track to the base of the eastern face.

A shorter approach is offered from the Rockclimber's Car park on the South-Eastern side of the mountain. This is accessed by travelling along Glass House Mountain Road passing Tibrogargen Drive on the right (8 km from the Bruce Highway turnoff). After you pass Tibrogargen Drive look for the next dirt road on the left providing access to Apex Park and Caves Lane. Do not enter the park but follow Caves Lane under the Railway Bridge onto Berteaus Road until you see a sign marked 'Mt Tibrogargen' (600 metres from the Apex Park). Take this left turn passing another 'Mt Tibrogargen' sign (900 metres) before reaching the Rockclimbers Car Park (1.2 km) from Berteaus Road. Care is required on these dirt roads as they are narrow and can become slippery when wet. The last 1.2 km stretch is a little rough in places but can be negotiated with care in a conventional vehicle. Do not turn off this road as private property is located nearby.

Walking from the car park you pick up circuit track which ambles around the base of the mountain. Turn to the right (signed 'East Face Rockclimber's Access') and continue for approximately 400m where a warning sign on the left marks the start of the 200m approach track to the base of the East Face. At the base of the wall on the East Face walk down to the right for 15 metres looking for the trail and commence scrambling up the mountain. The first real challenge will present in the form of a short exposed 6 metre scramble up a rock wall which leads into a cave. From the cave follow the trail to the left to a very exposed dirt ledge approximately 1 metre wide and 2 metres long and continue scrambling up until you gain a 'safe' ledge at the base of a rock wall. This rock wall requires a 20 metre climb and provides good hand holds however is also a 'no slip zone' due to exposure.

At the top of this section a walking track continues through some vegetation and becomes increasingly flatter near slabs at the base of the Upper Eastern Face. Take track to the left to a prominent but testing chimney which provides access to the western ridge that winds up on several to toward the summit area. If you choose to avoid exposure the least challenging track will place you in the middle of the Tibrogargen's summit. On the summit plateau take the track left to attain the best views of the ocean and coastal plains.


PROVISIONS:

To Wear:

* Hat
* Sunnies (optional)
* Good quality walking or running shoes in good condition. Dunlop Volleys are ideal (the
original soft sole lace ups or Velcro - not the new slip on street style as the sole is hard
and slippery).

Hiking Pack:

* 30 – 45 litres is an ideal sized day-pack. Do not plan to carry anything in your hands.

To Carry in Hiking Pack:

* 2L Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot).
* Food (for a snack on the summit):
- Muesli bars
- Fruit (fresh or dried)
- Chocolate

* Basic First Aid Kit including:
- Sunscreen
- Insect repellent
- Bandaids
- Pressure bandage
- Paracetamol
- Personal medications

* Mobile Phone (fully charged)

* Camera & Batteries

Optional Equipment:

* rope is recommended in case of rain or anxiety

* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)

* Wet weather gear:
- Spray jacket
- Gloves

* Head light and Batteries

* Climber's Helmet


HISTORY:

In 1770 Captain James Cook named these magnificant volcanic plugs the Glass House Mountains as they reminded him of the glass manufacturing houses in his English county. In 1799 Matthew Flinders became the first recorded European to land in the area and climbed Mt Beerburrum.

Aboriginal legend of the Glass House Mountains recalls Tibrogargan as the father, Beerwah as the mother and the other peaks in the region as their children. One day when Tibrogargan was gazing out to sea (he faces east) he recognised the huge ocean swell and a great flood that would endanger Beerwah, who was again pregnant and would not be able to reach the safety of the mountains in the west without assistance. He warned his eldest son Coonowrin of the flood which was coming and told him to take his mother Beerwah to the safety of the mountains while he assisted the other brothers and sisters (the smaller peaks) to safety. As Tibrogargan was gathering the 'children' he was dismayed to see Coonowrin had abandoned his mother Beerwah and was running off alone to the safety of the western mountains. Tibrogargan became enraged and chased Coonowrin hitting him with a nulla nulla (fighting stick) with such force that it dislocated Coonowrin's neck and he has never been able to straighten it since.

Mt Tibrogargan is a combination of the Aboriginal names for biting (kaiyathin) and flying squirrel (chibur) so obviously someone had a bad day out. It is still quite easy for Tibrogargen to spoil the day of the unsuspecting scrambler or trekker. RESPECT is the name of the name. Lose it and you can start to lose bits of yourself quite quickly. From the southern approach Tibro looks like a crouching gorilla and it can be one grumpy monkey.

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