Mt Kinabalu, Sabah, East Malaysia

Rob and Jim outside the open air satay restaurant in Kandasang, Sabah in the foothills of Mt Kinabalu

Dusk the night before the ascent at the Kinabalu Pine Resort.

The Timpohon Gate track is the most direct way route up Kinabalu at 17.5 km return (see Track Notes below). The track is wide and well maintained with at least 200 people (tourists, guides and porters) ascending and descending each day

Jim, Caleb & Rob at Laban Rata guesthouse (3272 metres) with a glimpse of the expansive summit area that waits the next day. Laban Rata is the overnight accommodation used by most hikers prior to the summit ascent the following day


Typical dormitory style bunk bed in Laban Rata. Rooms are often shared with other hikers and and vary in size from 4 to 12 beds. Accommodation is simple but comfortable

On the first level of Laban Rata is the restaurant, dining room and check-in desk.

Laban Rata is a home in the clouds perched on the side of a BIG mountain.


A snapshot of the hundreds of hectares of granite that await the next morning. The summit is 2.7 km from Laban Rata and takes the average hiker about 3 hours.

5:45am Sunrise on Low's Peak 4,095 metres
From Low's Peak looking toward Donkey Ears and the return route to Laban Rata

Donkey Ears with accompanying 8am cloud. Guided summit attempts always commence early to take advantage of any views on offer.
Cousin Gerald from Kuala Lumpur not far from the finish line of the Timpohon Gate.

DESCRIPTION:

At 4095 metres (13,432 feet) Mt Kinabalu has been described as the easiest high mountain to summit. It is one of the three tallest mountains between Australia and the Himalaya, outside of Mount Wilhelm in Paupa New Guinea (4,509 m/14,790 ft) and the challenging Mount Carstensz in West Papua (formerly Irain Jaya) 4,884 metres / 16,023ft.

Any adult with reasonable fitness, agility and stamina is able to successfully hike up Mt Kinabalu as no technical skills are required. Activities within the World Heritage listed Kinabalu National Park are highly regulated by the Malaysian government and the private management consortium (Sutera Sanctuary Lodges: link under Track Notes) which operate the guest accommodation buildings. Hikers must be accompanied by a guide at all times on the mountain and there is a natural expectation to stay overnight in the accommodation facilities provided at approximately 3,300 metres (the end of the first stage of the 6 km hike). Laban Rata is the largest of these plywood buildings which containers a restaurant (first floor) and dormitory style accommodation (second floor).

The Mount Kinabalu summit walk is very popular and limited to approximately 60 tourists per day. Bookings must be made months in advance to ensure you get the days you require. The popular months are from May - September as the rainy season commences from October greatly reducing the possibility of summiting. The rainy season sets in during December, January, February and booking the summit walk during these months is a gamble as the mountain is often closed.

Booking agents offer the mountain hike as package deals which includes as standard a climbing permit, insurance, guide (compulsory), accommodation, buffet dinner and breakfast at the restaurant in Laban Rata. In April 2008 the approximate cost for this package was $385 Malaysian Ringgit ($140 Australian) per person. Other expenses should be allowed for return transportation to the mountain (can be arranged through hotels in the Kinabalu National Park area), porter fees (usually your guide will act as the porter carrying up to 10 kg) and transportation to Timpohon Gate which is the official start of the walk.

Excellent information on the Mt Kinabalu hike and general information can be accessed from these links:
http://www.mount-kinabalu-borneo.com/index.html &
http://www.climbmtkinabalu.com/index.html

The North Face of Mt Kinabalu also boasts the world’s highest via ferrata (iron road) which began operating in 2007. A via ferrata is a man make construction of cables, rungs and footholds which open up isolated scrambling and climbing routes to hikers. Clients receive basic instruction on how to properly wear the harness and use other safety equipment which is attached to steel cables offering excellent protection. No technical skills are required.

Mountain Torq Via Ferrata are continuing to add additional routes with their premium experience being the 4-5 hour Low’s Peak Circuit. If you are considering this route it may be wise book local accommodation at the base of the mountain for the end of the day as a 2am start with 3 hour summit ascent, 5 hour via ferrata and 5 hour descent adds up to a big day out. Check out their website at http://www.mountaintorq.com/

LOCATION:

Kinabalu National Park is situated 90 km from Kota Kinabalu (KK), the capital of Sabah in East Malaysia. KK is vibrant city and wonderful holiday destination due to its close proximity to spectacular islands which are a haven for deep sea diving, snorkeling, island resorts and excellent seafood.

Air Asia provides the cheapest fares to KK from anywhere in south east Asia including Singarore, Malaysia or Brunei. Air Asia fly direct from Perth, Melbourne and the Gold Coast to Kuala Lumpur (West Malaysia) usually with reasonable same day connections through to KK. Royal Brunei Airlines is the main budget carrier from Australia to the UK and stops to refuel in Brunei. Often well priced fares to Brunei can be obtained on this route, which is closer (and therefore cheaper) to Kota Kinabalu than Kuala Lumpur. Expect to pay around $600 for a return flight from the Gold Coast to Kuala Lumpur on Air Asia. http://booking.airasia.com/skylights/cgi-bin/skylights.cgi

TRACK NOTES:

There are two guided routes on Mt Kinabalu. The 17.5km Tourist Route (as detailed briefly below) and the more challenging Mesilau Route which is approximately 4 km longer and commences from the Mesilau Nature Resort in the Upper Kundasang Valley and 100 km from Kota Kinabalu. Mesilau Resort, Kinabalu Park and Laban Rata are all managed by the Sutera Sanctury Lodges consortium. Their website provides valuable information about accommodation options in the mountains and on the coast http://www.suterasanctuarylodges.com.my/v2/labanrata.html. NOTE: Mini-Bus transfer fees quoted by this site are cheaper than those in the Day 1 Itinerary below as you have to wait for others staying in their accommodation venues to fill the bus before going anywhere which can waste quite a bit of time.

The Timpohon Gate Tourist route is recommended for first time hikers to Kinabalu. A suggested basic itinerary is outlined below:

Day 1

Fly into Kota Kinabalu and take a bus transfer to a hotel near the Kinabalu National Park. Perkasa Hotel Mt Kinabalu charge $300 Malaysian Ringgit ($110 Australian) to hire a personal mini bus and driver for transfers from KK to the hotel which includes all other drop offs and pick ups inside the National Park. A Twin Room at the Perkasa Hotel costs $170 Malaysian Ringgit ($63 Australian). Have dinner at the hotel or walk down to the local village of Kundasang to check out the night life.

Accommodation is also available inside Kinabalu National Park (managed by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges) and at other local hotels.

Day 2

6am Breakfast at the hotel and transfer to Park Headquarters (1,563 m) to register for the hike where you will be issued with an ID name tag which must be worn at all times. You can start later but it is best to avoid the 7:30am - 9:00am busy period. Bus drop off at Timpohon Gate (1866 m) with the guide and start the 6 km hike to the accommodation facility of Laban Lata (3,272 m). It is not uncommon for hikers from low altitude environments to experience headaches and shortness of breath from the 5km mark (near the lower helipad at 3,051m). This can ease off or persist until this point on the descent the next day.

With an early start Laban Rata is usually achieved by early to mid afternoon. Other accommodation facilities including Panar Laban & Gunting Lagadan may be booked and are quieter than Laban Rata. Spend the afternoon packing a small pack for the next day and looking around before dinner and an early night. Ear plugs are recommended as the kitchen staff and other hikers are very noisy by Western standards.

Day 3

2 am is the standard wake up for the summit departure. The mountain in generally clearer in the morning before tropical cloud begins to close in and hinders view from the summit from 9am on. If heavy rain is forecast the summit walk will be cancelled and hikers usually return to bed before waking to breakfast and the descent. This is simply par for the course when hiking on a high mountain - no guarantees are given for personal ability or suitability of weather.

The 2.7 km summit walk from Laban Rata is undertaken with headlamps, ID tag and guides. The ID tag is important as you will not be allowed to climb higher than a check point at 3670 metres if you do not have it. Most guides aim to depart Laban Rata between 2:30am - 3:00am to give their group the best chance of being on the summit of Low's Peak (4,095m) for sunrise. Low's Peak is usually attained between 5:30am - 6:00am.

Most groups spend around 1 hour on the summit area and depart about 7am for the descent to Laban Rata for breakfast and to pack the remainder of the equipment left in their room. Some guides may be keen to have less time on the summit as this gets them home a little earlier that day. If this occurs just keep telling them 'A little longer' until the main hiking group has departed between 7am - 7:30am. Departure from Laban Rata by 9am should see most groups off the mountain by early to mid afternoon.

Some people opt to travel back to KK that afternoon, however if possible plan to spend another night or two in the Kundasang area to enjoy the local food and culture. The satay and coffee in this area of Malaysia are especially good as it is one of a few places where local cattle are kept.

In our experience the local Malay staff are very friendly and have a service orientated nature. The guides are paid about $RM70 ($25 Australian) by the government for 2 days of following tourists on the mountain and will usually have a wife and 2-4 kids to feed back home in the village. Consider tipping your guide and driver generously.

HISTORY:

The local Malays trace their history back at least 800 years and as the highest place in a region, Mt Kinabalu is surrounded by myth and legend which is still respected (and revered) by many locals today. Like most high places in the world it is regarded as sacred by those who live in its shadows and foothills. The following site contains some useful references to the legends and history of the mountain http://www.mount-kinabalu-borneo.com/index.html

Upon hearing we were climbing Mt Kinabalu an extended family member who lives in Sarawak told me to ensure we respected everything on the mountain including the spirits of the rocks and trees. He works as an engineer for a multi national oil company and is married to a teacher. Local beliefs are to be considered, even if they are different from your own.

EMAIL ME WITH ANY QUESTION OR COMMENTS

Girraween National Park, South East Queensland

The Base of the First Pyramid from the end of the approach track. Any self respecting hiker should be able to walk straight up it in a few minutes.

Rob demonstrates the gradient which flattens out toward the summit. The First Pyramid is an easy scramble but lots of fun.

The famous Balancing Rock with the Second Pyramid in the background. The Second Pyramid is considerably more difficult than the First and should only be attempted by experienced scramblers in fine weather.

Jim sussing out a route up the Second Pyramid from the Northern end.

Looking west to the First Pyramid from the summit of the Second. Balancing rock is third from the left - photo taken by Caleb.

DESCRIPTION:

Girraween National Park is holy ground for the adventure community of south east Queensland and legendary within rockclimbing circles. Located high on the New England Tablelands (average elevation of 900 metres) and close to the New South Wales border, Girraween's climate is more like those of the cooler southern states than the humidity often associated with Queensland. Temperatures can sometimes exceed 30° Celsius in summer (December - February) however the area is predictably cold in winter by Australian standards with average daily temperatures ranging from 3-15° Celsius with minimums as low as -8 deg.

The average yearly rainfall at the park ranger quarters is 850mm. Most rain falls in Summer and early Autumn, but Winter rainfall is relatively high. The Spring months (September to November) are regarded is the optimum time to visit, but any time of the year is suitable for well prepared campers with good quality cold weather equipment (esp. tent, thermals and sleeping bag). As a general rule do not camp in Girraween past Easter each year (April) if you do not have good cold weather gear.

Cold weather may lead to an uncomfortable night in Girra but it is hardly likely to kill you. What is potentially more terminal is wet weather (including heavy fog or sleet) on the exposed granite surfaces of the Second Pyramid and Mt Norman. Even the relatively tame first Pyramid should be avoided during inclement weather. Check local weather forecasts and conditions before travelling to the park at www.weatherzone.com.au/ or http://mirror.bom.gov.au/weather/radar/.

Girraween contains the two camping areas of Castle Rock and Bald Rock Creek which are located quite close together. Information and camp site booking can be obtained from 13 13 04 or http://www.epa.qld.gov.au/parks_and_forests/find_a_park_or_forest/girraween_national_park/girraween_national_park__camping_information

Interstate travellers tend to use either of these camping grounds as a stopover during long journeys. Do not be surprised to hear motor homes and campers entering the park late at night. It is not uncommon to go to sleep in an isolated section in the camp ground and wake in the centre of a village. Ear plugs are recommended if tent camping.

LOCATION:

Girraween National Park is located 260km south-west of Brisbane just north of the Queensland-NSW border. From Brisbane take the Ipswich Motorway and turn off to the left on the Cunningham Highway to Warwick. Follow the Cunningham Highway into Warwick (120 km) and turn right in Wood Street / Cunningham Highway. After 1.5 km take a left turn to Stanthorpe on the New England Highway. The highway bypasses Stanthorpe (58 km) and the turnoff to Pyramids Road is located 25 km past Stanthorpe. Travel along Pyramids Road for 7km and follow the signs to either Castle Rock camp ground, Bald Rock Creek camp ground or the nearby Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area 100 meres further along Pyramids Road. The Pyramids are easily located from each of these areas.

Mt. Norman can be negotiated as a walk from the southern end of the Castle Rock camp ground (10.4 km return) which passes Castle Rock. Conventional vehicle access to the Mt Norman Day Use Area is obtained by driving into Wallangara to the south. From the Mt Norman Day Use Area the approach track to Mt Norman is only 2km (4km return).

From Girraween drive east along Pyramids Road toward the New England Highway. Take a left turn on Old Wallangar road which joins the New England Highway further south. Turn left at Wallangara into Margetts Road following 'Country Fresh' signs which is the local abattoir. At the T junction at the end of Margetts road take a left turn and then a right turn over a train bridge and another left into Woodlawn Street. Take the second turn on the right into Merawa Street which becomes Mt Norman Road. At the T junction at the end of Mt Norman Road take a left turn and follow it to the Mt Norman Day Use Area. Conventional vehicles are able to access the Day Use Area with care however do not proceed beyond this point unless you have a high clearance 4WD. Facilities in the Day Use Area consist of a couple of picnic tables and a composting toilet.

TRACK NOTES:

A number of walking tracks exist in Girraween including The Junction swimming area (5 km return), Castle Rock (5 km return), The Sphinx and Turtle Rock (7.4 km return). We are into scrambling rather than bushwalking and so provide track notes only for The Pyramids and Mt Norman.

NOTE: Bald Rock Creek and Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area in Girraween, Queensland are not to be confused with Bald Rock (1277 metres) located in the neighbouring Bald Rock National Park in New South Wales. Bald Rock is the largest granite composite rock in Australia and is most easily accessed from the Mount Lindesay Highway in NSW. The turn off to Bald Rock is on Bald Rock Road at Carrolls Creek 29 km north of Tentrerfield.

The Pyramids

The Queensland Parks & Wildlife suggest the climb to the summit of the Second Pyramid should only be undertaken by experienced rock climbers. Our experience is that confident scramblers are able to summit with caution and respect.

The First Pyramid is a 3.4 km return walk from the Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area. The approach track is well sign posted and of a very pedestrian gradient. The First Pyramid is little more than a steep walk but should not be attempted in wet weather. Balancing Rock and views east to the Second Pyramid are the summit highlights. If your party has any difficulty ascending the first Pyramid do not attempt to climb the Second Pyramid.

To access the Second Pyramid descend east from the summit of the First Pyramid on a clearly defined track. When this becomes uncomfortably steep veer to the north (left) for 20 metres looking for a wide crack packed with man made aids (tree trunk and branches) to assist the 5 metre descent to the ground. From this point walk north on a scrubby defined track for 250 metres looking toward the Second Pyramid until an accessible access point is attained on the base of the scramble.

There is no visible track on the Second Pyramid as it is all rock and care must be taken on the ascent to note some clear landmarks for the return journey, especially near the summit. The EPA advise considerable rockclimbing experience is necessary to scale it but confident scramblers are able to summit with care.

A more direct access route to the Second Pyramid is gained by walking in from Pyramids Road. This route does not involve summiting the First Pyramid. Continue driving past the Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area for approximately 1.5km until a 4WD track turn off to the left. Park a conventional vehicle in this area and continue walking for 400 metres up the 4WD track branching off to the west at the dead end. A large granite area provides short lived access before dropping back into the scrub for 500 metres aiming for the northern end of the Second Pyramid.

Mt Norman

From the southern end of the Castle Rock Camping Area, Mount Norman is a 10 km return Class 3 and 4 walk. If you are into bushwalking this is fine however a more direct 4 km return access is attained from the Mt Norman Day Use Area, as explained under LOCATION.

From the Day Use Area walk up the old fire road access track to the rocky slabs providing access to the southern end of Mount Norman. At the base proceed briefly to west (left) before wrapping around to the north for 150 metres looking for a prominent crack in the rock which is the summit scramble access point. If you continue walking past the access crack you will come to The Eye of the Needle on Mount Norman's northern face.

At the top of the 6- 8 metre access crack proceed with caution along a ledge until the track winds up past a prominent tree. Care must be taken in this section, especially on the descent as a slip here may result in a 25 metre plunge to the base. From the tree continue up two gradual but tight chimneys until the southern summit is attained. Crossing to the northern summit section involves two short leaps onto curved rock surfaces. The Northern Summit is regarded as the highest point.

Again the EPA warn that the final approach to the summit is steep and rock climbing experience is needed to reach the absolute top.

PROVISIONS:

To Wear:
* Hat
* Sunnies (optional)
* Good quality walking / running / hiking shoes in good condition.

Hiking Pack: 35 - 45 litres is an ideal sized day-pack for the Pyramids and Mt Maroon. This may sound like overkill to some but preparation is a good thing. Calling emergency services to rescue a hiker with a sprained ankle or dehydration is uncool.

* 2l Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot)
* Food for snacks and lunch on the summit:
- Muesli bars- Fruit (fresh or dried)
- Chocolate

* Basic First Aid Kit including:
- Sunscreen
- Insect repellent
- Bandaids
- Pressure bandage
- Elastic ankle support
- Paracetamol
- Personal medications
- Basic first aid book

* Mobile Phone (fully charged) Generally good reception with Telstra 3G network.

* 10 metres (minimum) of good quality rope

* Wet weather gear:
- Spray jacket with hood

* Cold weather gear:
- Space blanket
- Jacket
- Long trousers
- Beanie (head warmer)
- Gloves
- Flint or Matches (waterproof) in case of emergency

* Head lamp and Batteries

Optional Equipment:
* Gaiters
* Camera & Batteries
* GPS
* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)

HISTORY:

Girraween is adapted from an Aboriginal word meaning a place of flowers which is evidence of the spectacular spring wildflower displays which bloom from late July through to October.

Aboriginals have lived in the area for countless generations and explorer Allan Cunningham first entered the Girraween area in 1827. In the 1840s Robert Mackenzie settled in the Girraween area and attempted logging, dairying, beef cattle, grazing sheep and fruit trees.

Dr Spencer Roberts of Stanthorpe made the first submission to Parliament for the area to receive National Park status which was eventually granted in the 1930s.

As recently as 1980 the Park was enlarged to its present 11, 800 capacity of hectares. As mentioned in the introduction Girraween is legendary among rock climbers Australia wide and is a must do for scramblers and other adventurers.

Mt Maroon, South East Queensland

The South Peak on Mt Maroon offers impressive 360° views of the entire Border Ranges scenic rim including magnificent Mt Barney. It is traditional to add a stone to the cairn marking the South Summit.

DESCRIPTION:
The grandeur and challenge of Mt Maroon (967 m) has sometimes been overlooked by hikers solely because for its proximity to Mt Barney (1359m). In recent years 'the secret' of Maroon seems to have spread and more people are recognising it as a worthy hiking and trekking destination. The Cotswold Track (regarded as the tourist route) starts from the northern end of the mountain and is used by both hikers and rockclimbers. The track commences on private property with the owners approval so respect their generosity by staying on the track and keeping noise to a minimum. Mt. Maroon has a rich rockclimbing heritage which must also be respected by hikers and scramblers. Climbers regularly carry 30 + kilograms of equipment so give way to them, especially on steeper sections of the track.

Mount Maroon has two peaks (North and South) and is part of the Mt Barney National Park. The South Peak is the highest point on the broad summit area and offers 360° views of the entire Border Ranges scenic rim. Most groups complete the 6 km Cotswold Track in 5 - 6 hours (depending on rest stops and summit options) and it is recommended that this route is used as a fitness indicator before attempting the longer routes of Mt Barney.
LOCATION:

From Brisbane take the Mt Lindesay Highway through Beaudesert (69 kms from the Brisbane CBD) following the signs to Rathdowney (111km from Brisbane CBD). Travel through Rathdowney and turn off into Boonah Rathdowney Road (right turn approximately 1 km past the town). At 15 km begin to look for the left turn onto Cotswold Road which brings you to the Cotswold Track car park after 3.3 km.

As mentioned in the Description, the car park area and the start of the Cotswold Track are both on private property so show due respect to the owners by doing all the basic things like parking in the right places, reducing noise, not littering and definitely not camping in this area. If in any doubt about proper etiquette check out 'Bushwalking Ethics.'

TRACK NOTES:
COTSWORD TRACK (EAST RIDGE)

From the car park walk out the right hand (south west) end to the Cotswold Track and through a gate that leads up a small hill. Some small dams become evident at this point and continue up the ridge as it gradually becomes steeper. An obvious track follows the eastern ridgeline so just keep gaining altitude on it. As the track begins to eventually flatten out look for a track diverging off downhill to the left and take it. As you continue to descend to the track the imposing 200 metre East Face will come more clearly into view. A descent during an ascent will always end in pain so when the track levels out consider taking a short break at the base of the East Face to rest your legs before gaining back the ground just lost.

Continue on the main track until it branches left and ascends into a prominent gully. Another track runs down to the right and is mainly used by rockclimbers seeking to gain access to the East Face. Continue up the left hand gully until it tapers off into thick scrub. Follow the winding track for 100 metres until a small seasonal creek is reached, which is a traditional camp site.

From this point various options unfold. Facing the creek (south) you can choose to:

1. Branch to the left for a short exploration of a lookout point before returning to the camp site.

2. Follow the track up the creek to the right before picking up the main south track to the left which crosses some rocky slabs in its ascent of the South Peak. An unnatural 2 metre pile of rocks marks the traditional summit which is the highest point (967m) providing unhindered views.

3. Follow the track up the creek to the right before picking up a track to the right that leads to the North Peak area above the East Face. On a clear day it is possible to walk in a semi-circle from the natural amphitheatre of the North Summit area around to the South Peak by sight.

Mt Maroon is in close proximity to Mt Barney and therefore subject to the same unpredictable weather patterns. This should influence what options you choose, especially in the summit areas. The views from Mt Maroon's summit are spectacular. If you choose to venture to the South Peak be sure to look for Mt Barney further to the south.

PROVISIONS:

To Wear:

* Hat

* Sunnies (optional)

* Good quality walking / running / hiking shoes in good condition.

Hiking Pack: 45 - 60 litres is an ideal sized day-pack for Mt Maroon. This may sound like overkill to some and even though Maroon is Barney's little sister she is still worthy of respect for she is a BIG girl.

* 4l Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot)

* Food for snacks and lunch on the summit:

- Sizeable lunch of sandwiches / pasta / etc

- Muesli bars- Fruit (fresh or dried)

- Chocolate

* Basic First Aid Kit including:

- Sunscreen

- Insect repellent

- Bandaids

- Pressure bandage

- Elastic ankle support

- Paracetamol

- Personal medications

- Basic first aid book

* Mobile Phone (fully charged) Generally good reception with Telstra 3G network.

* 10 metres (minimum) of good quality rope

* Wet weather gear:

- Spray jacket with hood

* Cold weather gear:

- Space blanket

- Jacket

- Long trousers

- Beanie (head warmer)

- Gloves

- Flint or Matches (waterproof) in case of emergency

* Head lamp and Batteries

* Shovel and toilet paper

Optional Equipment:

* Gaiters

* Camera & Batteries

* GPS

* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)

HISTORY:

As mentioned in the Description, Mt Maroon has traditionally been recognised for its rockclimbing prowess over and above its hiking routes.

Mt Barney, South East Queensland

Taken from Barney View Road this picture does not quite portray what awaits the unsuspecting adventurer. Adequate preparation is the key to a good day out on Mt. Barney.

Motley crew setting out for an overnight stay in the saddle area of rum Jungle and The Old Hut Site below prominent East Peak

Jim making camp at the Old Hut Site. This is a well protected area with good seasonal water supply and a great northerly outlook.

Dawn breaking over the valley from the Old Hut Site.

Joel taking a scrambling route on the West Peak.


Mt Earnest and Mt Lindesay from the West Peak.

Local native whose staple diet is defrosted pies, usually able to be appeased with bread, canned food and chocolate bars.

The 3 Amigos: Rob, Jim & Caleb on the East Peak with the West Peak in the background (2007)

DESCRIPTION:

Mt Barney has enjoyed three distinct periods of bushwalking activity commencing in 1920 - 30's, then during the 1960's to mid 70's and more recently from the 1990's. There is no doubting that Barney is Queensland's premier bushwalking destination and with more than 30 possible routes to its peaks it is a big mountain by Australian standards.

Barney boasts two summit peaks, the West (1359m or 4458ft) and East (1354m or 4442ft) the latter being the easier and therefore the most popular to summit. In saying this there is no 'easy' way up a 1300 metre mountain so it presents as a big day out regardless of your experience and capability. An early start is required if you plan to negotiate this mountain as a day walk. Most summit parties leave between 7am - 8am, however earlier starts provide more time for rest stops, a longer lunch break and exploring.

As Mt Barney National Park is a wilderness region all the basic safety procedures and equipment must be considered. A map and compass, wet weather gear and a minimum of 4 litres of water per person is mandatory, along with all the other standard gear (see Provisions section below). The peaks of Mt Barney rise 1.1 km from its base and 'white outs' commonly reduce visibility to 20 metres causing disorientation even to hikers familiar with the mountain. Temperature fluctuations are also common due to wind or rain and must be considered in your standard equipment. Just because it looks fine in the car park in the morning don't assume it will remain like that during the day.

The track notes herein describe the most well used trails which are located on the south-east side of the mountain (South Ridge and South-East Ridge). For the most part these are steep walks rather than scrambles, however some scrambling will be involved on each track. A good quality short rope of at least 10 metres should also form part of your basic provisions. As a test of your capability to summit Mt Barney it is recommended that you attempt the Cotswold Track on Mt Maroon. For information on this walk click on 'Mt Maroon South East Queensland.'

Barney is a wonderful hiking destination and making the correct preparations will help to ensure a memorable day out on this spectacular mountain. Camping is legal in the saddle area between the summits. Internet bookings for camp sites (Rum Jungle, Old Hut site) can be made at www.qld.gov.au/camping or telephone 13 13 04 for bookings and enquiries. The Rangers at Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service at Boonah can be contacted on (07) 5463 5041, (07) 5544 3233 or boonah@epa.qld.gov.au. It is advisable to contact the ranges to check for local warnings such as bushfires or local back burning. Check local weather forecasts and conditions at www.weatherzone.com.au/ or http://mirror.bom.gov.au/weather/radar/.

LOCATION:

From Brisbane take the Mt Lindesay Highway through Beaudesert (69 kms from Brisbane CBD) following the signs to Rathdowney (111km from Brisbane CBD). Travel through Rathdowney and turn off into Boonah Rathdowney Road (right turn approximately 1 km past the town). Travel for 7km and take a left turn into Upper Logan Road and stay on it winding past Bigriggen Road (privately owned camping ground), Flanagans Reserve (public camping ground) and Seidenspinner Road (4.7 km from Boonah Rathdowney Road). On a clear day Mt Barney will now be well in site. Keep on Upper Logan Road (becomes dirt after Seidenspinner Road) past Mt Barney Lodge (camping and cottage accommodation) and into the Yellow Pinch car park.

The last toilets you will see for the day are located near the car park. The access track to the South Ridge (Peasant's Ridge) and South East Ridge is located on the other side of the information booth at the end of the car park.

TRACK NOTES:

Mt Barney is a wilderness destination and must be shown a great deal of respect. Navigational skills, quality equipment and good fitness levels are considered stock standard for this experience. Topographic maps for the area should be easily attained from a variety of camping stores in Brisbane metropolitan and suburban areas. Sunmap publish a 1:25000 topographic map (number 944131) which has the South Ridge marked. World Wide Maps will post this out for about $13.00 total ($10.00 map, $3.00 postage): http://www.worldwidemaps.com.au/. With the aid of this map, the track notes below, other information and common sense, you should be able to keep on course and enjoy a small slice of what Barney has to offer.

Until the South Ridge (Peasant's Ridge) was discovered in the 1960's the South East Ridge was the most popular route to the East Peak. A common circuit walk is to ascend on the South East Ridge to the East Peak then drop off the East Peak heading due west into the saddle area (Old Hut Site & Rum Jungle) and descend on the South Ridge to complete 16.5 kilometres return walk from the car park. The advantage of this route is that it incorporates the East Peak and so you get to bag a summit. If you ascend on the South Ridge you come out in the saddle area (Rum Jungle / the Old Hut Site) and still have a minimum two hour return from either East or West Peak.

That said, safety is the first priority and it is often best to become familiar with one route up and down before branching out onto new tracks especially on a mountain of this size. For this reason using the South Ridge up and down is recommended for first time hikes on Mt Barney.

SOUTH RIDGE:

Commence at Yellow Pinch car park and take the 4WD access track, walking past the large locked steel access gate and numerous warning signs located 20 metres from the car park. Continue up this road for 1 km until the top of a hill and obvious fence and steel pedestrian gate. Pass through the gate and nearby sign indicating 'South Ridge 3km' following the track down the hill looking to the right when the flat ground is attained for photo opportunities of Barney's East Peak.

Continue along this flat section for another 1 km and through a wide swinging farm gate (be sure to lock it properly) which leads into a small creek (Upper Logan River) with a low concrete bridge. Depending on recent rainfall it is possible to walk across on the right hand side of the bridge to prevent wetting your feet. If the creek is flowing take the obvious track to the right, walk across a large log and rock hop across the creek. Continue along the access track passing Campsites 9 and 10. At approximately 1 km from the creek (3 km from the car park) begin looking on the right for a large tree with the initials 'SE' carved about 1.5 metres up the trunk. There is also a prominent log laying at the base of this tree. This is the start of the South East Ridge.

Continue along the main track for a further 300 metres until the clearly signed start of the South Ridge. Here the 4WD access trail branches to the left and runs around the western base of the mountain. As a guide a reasonable pace for this first 4 km section is 60 - 70 minutes. If you have taken 2 hours to reach thios point and don't plan to camp the night, it would be worth reassessing the capability of your group to summit this mountain. Barney is a big hill and if you plan to walk off it in the daylight you have to keep moving and limit rest stops. (NOTE: While walking off the mountain recently at 1:30pm we came across a large family group with small children near Camp Site 10 . They asked how much more 'climbing' was involved to reach the summit. Jim informed them that they were still on the approach track and had not started climbing anything yet. Groups such as this should stick to short walking tracks in lesser National Parks. Mt Barney requires preparation and endurance).

The South Ridge is clearly defined for the next 3.5 km to the saddle area of Rum Jungle. About half way between the start of the South ridge and the saddle area is a large slab with a prominent crack running through it. Wedge your feet in this crack for safety especially on the descent. Just above this slab the track winds near an exposed rock section with 20 - 30 metre drop offs. Caution is required here especially on the descent as leaf litter or moisture in this area can make the slabs slippery. Continue scrambling up a short 10m chimney to a rocky rest point with a pleasant view. From this point it becomes evident that you are actually on a ridge.

Continue past two flat camping areas to the right of the main trail before another scramble gives way to flat ground at the top of the ridge. Continue winding along the relatively flat trail until a 150 metre descent into Rum Jungle. The West Peak will become clearly evident during this descent section on a clear day. Rum Jungle is an expansive cleared camping area that is under the canopy and therefore home to all sorts of invasive bugs and insects including leeches. On the western flank of Rum Jungle is a rock wall that provides access to The West Peak. The West Peak requires some scrambling and should only be considered if you have plenty of time (minumum 2 hours) and good orientation skills as it is easy to become disorientated in this section of the mountain even with good visibility. Hikers that get into trouble on the West Peak commonly descend too far to the north-west into the upper reaches of Barney Gorge which is very steep, thick and best avoided.

From Rum Jungle pick up the trail to the north (right) following this down for 80 metres crossing a small stream and then onto the small dirt clearing of the Old Hut Site. Three huts were built on this site during the 1960's - late 70's however nothing visible remains today of them today. It is important to find the Old Hut Site as from here you pick up the trails which wind up toward the East Peak. This site provides a good place for lunch due to the nearby stream and lovely views down the northern valley. If camping this site only supports 2 small tents.

From the Old Hut Site allow 2 hours return (minimum) to complete a summit of the East Peak. If you plan to set off past 12.30pm do so in the knowledge that you won't arrive back until 2:30pm at best leaving 3-4 hours to walk 7.5 km off the mountain in the daylight (depending upon the season, visibility, weather). This is why an early start is recommended.

Care needs to be taken in trail selection from the Old Hut Site to the East Peak as there are multiple options which can confuse the descent. Consider marking your trail with coloured ribbon or tape, which is of course is removed during the descent. This may sound fairly pathetic to the intrepid adventurer however I am aware of guides who have been disorientated on the East Peak for two hours. This is a big, wide mountain and plenty of people have been rescued or spent a cold and uncomfortable night on its upper slopes. Aim to avoid this at all costs, even though it may mean sacrificing the summit if you judge it is becoming unattainable. It will be there another day and if it's not neither will you so you won't have to worry about it. It is advisable to wear gaiters (or long socks or trousers) on both East and West Peaks as low scrub often obscures visibility of brush, branches and stumps which cause cuts and scratches. Depending upon quality, gaiters can also provide another level of protection from insect or snake bite.

When walking off the East Peak toward the Old Hut Site be sure to remove any markers you may have placed and follow your ascent route as closely as possible. If in any doubt of your ascent route it is advisable to use a compass to bear sou-sou-west on the return. This should prevent a descent too far to the right into Barney Gorge placing you downstream of the Old Hut Site which is highly undesirable. Any deviation should be made on tracks to the left during the descent which will at least put you upstream of the Old Hut Site which leads back to Rum Jungle.

From Rum Jungle begin to look for the orange metallic triangles placed by rangers to indicate the descent on the South Ridge. A number of these indicators will be encountered during the next 1.5 km of the descent. After carefully negotiating the chimney and rock slabs in the middle section of the South Ridge continue walking out on the approach. Mountain biking the 4 km approach to the start of the South Ridge is an option to consider in dry weather. In wet weather the track turns into heavy clay and becomes slippery especially on the 1st km from the car park to the steel pedestrian gate.

SOUTH EAST RIDGE:

The approach to the South East Ridge is the same as the South Ridge as outlined in the first two paragraphs under 'South Ridge' above. A large tree on the right of the track engraved with ‘SE’ with a log at its base laying parallel to the main track indicate the start of the ridge. The track winds uphill and then through a flatter section of eucalyptus forest before a 400 m uphill and the last of the level ground. At the top of this section look for the first in a total of four resting points which offer excellent views. The first rest point provides good views of Mt Ernest in the foreground and the wedding cake shaped Mt Lindesay which in on the NSW border beyond. Try to limit rest stops to 4 stops of 5- 10 minutes maximum on the South East Ridge as this should allow for a long lunch break of 45 minutes at the summit of the East Peak.

From this point continue ascending on the clearly defined trail to the right of the ridgeline. Where there are any deviations in the trail keep to the high ground. All trails are part of the South East Ridge but some deviate into thick vegetation which is best avoided. Scramblers should be looking to the ridgeline on the left of the track to make the most of any visible slabs. It is possible to walk and scramble up the ridgeline for much of this section maximising the views and thrills however due care must be taken. If scrambling off the main track minimise your impact and remain vigilant as the drops are considerable.

Rest Stop 2 offers picturesque views of Earnest, Lindsay and a deep gully with sheer cliffs either side. After a break follow the track up a short 3-4 metre scramble which provides access across a spectacular razorback and into a fern grove. Keep plugging away uphill for 20 - 30 minutes until reaching a small cleared patch of ground at the top of this section. This is our unofficial Rest Stop 3. You will recognise it as the track descends briefly immediately after this point. From 'Rest Stop 3' look for views of the imposing West Peak.

From this point the track drops steeply for 3-4 metres and then across a scrubby gully before veering right to a 3 metre rocky slab. Look for a crack at the right of this slab to scramble up or alternately boost someone up beside the rock wall on the left to place a sling or rope around an obvious tree at the top of this section (a 10 metre rope is sufficient). This slab can become slippery when wet and a short rope is recommended. Continue following the steep track for a few minutes until it tapers to some flatter ground and an excellent lookout immediately to the left.

This point is about three quarters of the way up the ridge and from here on you begin to reap the rewards of the South East Ridge. A couple of 6 metre chimneys, wonderful views and a 300 metre drop off located unnervingly close to the track await. Making good time earlier in the day enables you to take time to savour the views and experience the elevation during this last section. After 20 - 30 minutes a false summit is attained offering excellent views of the East and West Peaks on a clear day. Pick out the trail through low scrub for a further 300 metres and when on the rocky summit look for the survey marker confirming your arrival at the East Peak.

The East Peak offers unhindered 360° views dwarfing everything but the West Peak. Look to the east for Mt Warning in NSW and north for a glimpse of Brisbane's CBD skyscrappers. Many of Barney's lower peaks are evident from this point including North Peak and Bippo to the south west. Lunch can be taken on the summit area or retrace your steps 30 metres to a clearing off from the left of the track which provides a semi-shaded area with spectacular views and a considerable drop off of 300 metres. After a good rest the South Ridge can be attained by dropping gradually off the East Peak toward the saddle area of the Old Hut Site and Rum Jungle. Details of this descent are described in the last two paragraphs of the track notes under 'The South Ridge'.

70% of accidents occur on the descent so be careful and take it slowly.

PROVISIONS:

To Wear:

* Hat
* Sunnies (optional)
* Good quality walking / running / hiking shoes in good condition.

Hiking Pack:

45 - 60 litres is an ideal sized day-pack for Mt Barney. This may sound like overkill to some but I know a number of people who have spent a cold and uncomfortable night on Barney praying for dawn. (When camping include the basic listed below plus tent, ground sheet, sleeping mat and good sleeping bag). Do not plan to carry anything in your hands.

To Carry in Hiking Pack:

* 1:25:000 Topographic map & Compass

* 4L Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot). Consider packing some powdered electrolyte to stave off cramp.

* Food for snacks and lunch on the summit (consider packing more than you need for 1 day):
- Sizeable lunch of sandwiches / pasta / etc
- Muesli bars
- Fruit (fresh or dried)
- Chocolate
- Salt (tasty with lunch and for leech removal)

* Basic First Aid Kit including:
- Sunscreen
- Insect repellent
- Bandaids
- Pressure bandage
- Elastic ankle support
- Paracetamol
- Personal medications
- Basic first aid book

* Mobile Phone (fully charged) Generally good reception with Telstra 3G network.

* 10 metres (minimum) of good quality rope
* Wet weather gear:
- Spray jacket with hood

* Cold weather gear:
- Space blanket
- Jacket
- Long trousers
- Beanie (head warmer)
- Gloves
- Flint or Matches (waterproof) in case of emergency

* Head lamp and Batteries

* Shovel and toilet paper

* Gaiters

Optional Equipment:
* Camera & Batteries

* GPS

* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)


HISTORY:

E. W. S. Hardgrave was the first European to settle in the area in 1882. Captain Patrick Logan along with botanists Alan Cunningham and Charles Fraser made the first recorded summit ascent of the mountain by Europeans in 1828 after a failed attempt a year earlier. Logan was the strict Commander of the Brisbane settlement and was responsible for opening up much of the country around the greater Brisbane region. He was convinced Mt Barney was Mt Warning as recorded by Captain Cook during his Endeavour voyage in 1770. Fraser's journal graphically recalls the fearful day and describes with some detail how he made it off the mountain with blood freely flowing and his clothes shredded. Logan was the only one of the three to summit on the East Peak and seeing Mt Warning in the distance finally became convinved of his error. Being a stubborn man Logan's journal is decidedly understated in recalling the glory of the day's events, probably because he was still relectant to admit his mistake. Nevertheless he remains a great man in early Australian history and many geographic landmarks bear his name. Logan's Ridge on Mt Barney is regarded as a classic scramble to this day.

Cronan Creek which flows into the Logan River was known by local Aboriginals as Dugulunba (leave it alone) and with Mt Barney meaning 'go away' it is obvious they had some fear and trepidation about the area. Anyone who ventures onto Barneys upper slopes should also be endowed with appropriate respect for this magnificent mountain.