Thursday, June 18, 2009

Mt Bartle Frere, North Queensland


Mt Bartle Frere (1622m) is the tallest mountain in Queensland. The summit track is primarily a walk with little scrambling on offer

EPA sign near the Josephine Falls car park indicating the 7.5km definitive track to the summit

The vast majority of the walk is under the canopy, especially during the first 5km

Rod refueling at Majuba Creek (3km) before leeches move us on. Salt and repellent are essential items in an environment that averages over 4 metres of rain per annum

Jim at the helipad (7km) and adjacent evacuation hut and the first of three false summits above

Views from between the helipad and boulder field

Rod at the start of the boulder field, which is the highlight of the walk

Rob gains the eastern summit and the highest point in Queensland (1622m)

Rod seeking a view near the summit sign

Vista from 1622 metres. Most days the tropical humidity is responsible for rain or cloud severely limiting views

Upon return to the car park, Josephine Falls provides an excellent place to relax and soak some weary muscles.

DESCRIPTION:

The Mount Bartle Frere summit is the highest peak in Queensland (1622m) and located within the Wooroonooran National Park approximately 75km south of Cairns in North Queensland. The summit trail passes over the mountain in an east - west direction and a car shuffle would be required to complete this 15km walk. The most common summit route is a 15km return hike from the eastern side of the mountain commencing and concluding at the Josephine Falls Car Park. Both sides of the mountain are accessible by conventional vehicle, however a 4WD is required to reach the upper end of Gourka Road (to Junction Camp) on the western side.

Some track notes refer to camping either at Big Rock Camp, Broken Nose or the Eastern Summit Camp (helipad and evacuation hut). In our experience this is not necessary in good weather as completing both hikes either from east to west (Josephine Falls to Junction Camp) or the eastern return (starting and concluding at Josephine Falls) are quite achievable in 9 - 10 hours for those of above average fitness levels. Camping permits can be obtained on-line from www.qld.gov.au/camping or by Telephone: 13 13 04.

The average yearly rainfall regularly reaches four metres on the mountain and therefore sudden weather changes are normal in this region and must be considered in your preparation. The dry season (which is really the drier season) runs from April - September and is the recommended time for this hike.
See the Queensland Government Parks and Wildlife site for further information:
http://www.epa.qld.gov.au/parks_and_forests/find_a_park_or_forest/bartle_frere_trail_wooroonooran_national_park/

LOCATION:
The Bartle Frere trail can be accessed by road from the coast at Josephine Falls Car Park or from the west via the Atherton Tableland.

To access Josephine Falls from Cairns travel south on the Bruce Highway for 65km to Miriwinni. 2km south of Miriwinni turn right off the Bruce Highway onto Bartle Frere Road and proceed 8km to Josephine Falls. Access is by conventional vehicle.

To access to the western trail from Cairns travel south on the Bruce highway for 21km to Gordonvale. Turn right on the Gordonvale - Atherton Road (Gillies Highway) and proceed 38km to left turn into Wrights Creek Road. Follow for 6km through Lake Eacham looking for left turn into Topaz Road approximately 2-3km past Lake Eacham. Proceed on Topaz Road for 2km past Butchers Creek School taking left turn to Lamins Hill Lookout on Old Cairns Track which is a gravel road. Proceed for 300 metres turning left at the T junction (still on Old Cairns Track) and take the next turn right into Gourka Road.

Follow Gourka Road with care for 7km to the start of the Wooroonooran National Park boundary. Conventional vehicles should not proceed past this point. If visiting in the wet season, check road conditions beyond the park boundary by contacting the EPA as the road may be closed or suitable for 4WD vehicles only. 4WD vehicles may continue a further 2km to Junction Camp and the official start of the Western Track. The start of the Western Track is considerably higher (approximately 700 metre altitude) than the start of the eastern Josephine Falls Track (approximately 100 metres).

For information on the condition of Gourka Road, basic map, bushwalking registration contact the EPA: Web: http://www.epa.qld.gov.au/projects/park/index.cgi?parkid=125
Email: cic@epa.qld.gov.au or Telephone: 07 4067 6304

TRAIL NOTES:

The notes below refer to the 15km Josephine Falls return track. We did not attempt the Western Trail due to having only one vehicle available and one day to complete the walk.
As indicated through our blog preparation is critical for all hiking, and especially on Mt Bartle Frere. The challenge comes mainly in two forms; 1. the unrelenting 3.5km section from Big Rock Camp to the Eastern Summit Camp & 2. variable weather conditions in the form of heavy rainfall, reduced visibility from cloud and sudden temperature fluctuations.
The EPA advise the Josephine Falls trek is extremely demanding and should only be undertaken by experienced bushwalkers. They also recommended allowing two days for the ascent to the summit and back to either the east (Josephine Falls) or the west (Tablelands). We consider ourselves to be of average fitness* and were able to complete the walk in about 9 hours and enjoy a refreshing mid afternoon swim at Josephine Falls. (*based on a pace of 8 hours for the 16.5km South East Ridge - South Ridge circuit on Mt Barney which is fairly average).
The key is to get an early start.
Josephine Falls Track
Register at the information hut at the start of the walk (100m altitude) near the Josephine Falls Car Park and proceed on the wide track to Majuba Creek through the lowland rainforest. This first section should take approximately 1 hour and is a common first rest spot. Water can be refilled here if required.
From Majuba Creek the track narrows and becomes more steep and root bound as it winds gradually up to Big Rock Campsite. As scramblers (and occasional free climbers) we don't really get the attraction of camping at Big Rock as all the hard work is yet to come. There are also multiple nightmare tales from unsuspecting campers in this areas (usually in relation to bush rats and leeches) which is more reasons not to stop for the night.
From Big Rock a popular detour for campers is the lookout of Broken Nose (962m). We did not attempt this as we were pushing for the summit, however the option is there. This first section from the car park to Big Rock is relatively flat and only gains 400 metres over 3.5km.
Just above the Big Rock Campsite, Majuba Creek crosses the track for the last time providing another easy water access point. From here the track starts to increase considerably in gradient over the 3.5km to the Eastern Summit Camp (helipad and evacuation hut). 1 km orange markers can be seen along this section however were becoming dull due with weathering.
This section is really the grind of the hike, especially in wet weather, as it gains 1000 + metres in elevation in a distance of approximately 3.5km (about 28 degrees). The vegetation begins to thin in this section as you leave the rainforest floor, ascend through the foothills and on into the upland forest area of the Helipad & Evac Hut (approx. 14oom). Supplies in the Hut are for emergency purposes only and should not be raided simply because they are there. Consider making a deposit rather than a withdrawal.
From the Helipad follow the clear footpad through the boulder field and past a couple of false summits and up a final short push to the summit area. Exposure to elevation is not an issue on Bartle Frere as the track does not pass near any drop offs, however care does need to be taken in the boulder field especially in wet weather.
As the summit area is shrouded by shrubs, over the years hikers have scrambled 4-5 metres up a nearby tree in the hope of improving the outlook. As the tree has now been dead for years it is not recommend to climb it. On a clear day spectacular views are available to the Barrier Reef, Innisfail and the inland Tablelands. From the summit retrace your steps to Josephine Falls or continue on to the west.
PROVISIONS:
To Wear:
* Hat
* Sunnies (optional)
* Good quality walking / running / hiking shoes in good condition.
Hiking Pack: 45 - 50 litres is an ideal sized day-pack for Bartle Frere.
When camping include the basic listed below plus tent, ground sheet, sleeping mat, light sleeping bag and excellent repellent. Do not plan to carry anything in your hands.
To Carry in Hiking Pack:
*Topographic map & Compass
* 3L Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot). Consider packing some powdered electrolyte to stave off cramp.
* Food for snacks and lunch on the summit (consider packing more than you need for 1 day):
- Sizeable lunch of sandwiches / pasta / etc
- Muesli bars- Fruit (fresh or dried)
- Chocolate
- Salt (tasty with lunch and for leech removal)
* Basic First Aid Kit including:
- Sunscreen
- Insect repellent
- Bandaids
- Pressure bandage
- Elastic ankle support
- Paracetamol
- Personal medications
- Basic first aid book
* Mobile Phone (fully charged)
* Quality wet weather gear:
- Spray jacket with hood
* Cold weather gear:
- Space blanket
- Jacket
- Long trousers
- Beanie (head warmer)
- Gloves- Flint or Matches (waterproof) in case of emergency
* Head lamp and Batteries* Shovel and toilet paper
* Gaiters
Optional Equipment:
* Camera & Batteries
* GPS
* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)
HISTORY:
Without seeking to reinvent the wheel the following site contains some excellent information:


Bartle Frere forms part of the traditional lands of the Noongyanbudda Ngadjon people who refer to it as Chooreechillum. They have lived in this area for thousands of years and believed when they die their spirits were reborn to continue to watch over the people and the region.
In 1873 Europeans named the mountain after Sir Henry Bartle Frere (the British Governor of Cape Colony during the Zulu Wars and President of the Royal Geographical Society). The first recorded European to summit was Christie Palmerston in 1886, assisted by Noongyanbudda Ngadjon men.
Bartle Frere's immediate neighbour is Mt Bellenden Ker the second highest mountain in Queensland at 1,611 metres. In 1942 an American B-25 Mitchell medium range bomber crashed on the mountain with the loss of all seven crew members.
The eastern approach from Josephine Falls follows a rough track used in the 1890s by tin miners who worked a mining claim near the summit. Parts of the trail from the Atherton Tableland follow traditional Aboriginal walking tracks.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

The Stinson Walk, South East Queensland

Caleb signing the log alongside a plague at the Stinson Crash Site

All that is left of the plane wreckage is a few twisted pieces of indistinguishable metal that might as well be a tractor.

DESCRIPTION:

Lamington National Park mainly consists of rough rainforest terrain with pockets of all sorts of noxious weeds such as the nasty Lawyer Vine. Most of the rain in the Park blows in from the ocean and so areas on the coastal side of the Park have a much higher annual rainfall than those to the west. Although the term jungle is not used commonly to describe the Australian bush, areas near the McPherson Range (the highest eastern points) within Lamington National Park are close as you will get, apart from the tropical regions of Northern Queensland.

As the Stinson crash site is 1 km to the north west of Point Lookout (1085m) on the McPherson Range, it is still quite close to the higher rainfall areas. Like much of Lamington, the walk in from Christmas Creek is mostly under the canopy through thick, steep and often wet bushland.
One reason for doing The Stinson Walk seems to be viewing the remains of the Stinson aircraft that crashed on 19 February 1937 while enroute from Brisbane to Sydney. If this is your primary motivation then you will probably be disappointed as 70 + years of erosion have taken a serious toll on its remains. A more enduring inspiration is to undertake the walk mindful of the courage, stamina and bushcraft of all involved in the subsequent rescue.

Nine days after the crash local resident Bernard O'Reilly set off to look for the wreckage and any survivors. He plotted a course based on a knowledge of the plane's flight path and his conviction that it had most likely struck one of the highest points along the McPherson Range and crashed in the surrounding dense bushland. He spent the first night sleeping rough and on the second day climbed Mt Throakban (1140m) from where he spotted evidence of a yellow patch in the forest that he concluded must have been a caused by fire. Using a high degree of bush sense he navigated 8km in around 8 hours to the crash site finding two survivors, John Proud and Joe Binstead.

They reported four men had died in the crash (including both pilots) and that a third survivor, Jim Westray had set off to fetch help by attempting to follow the upper tributaries of Christmas Creek out to the western farmlands below. As this was the shortest way out to raise the alarm, Bernard O'Reilly also used this route and tragically discovered Jim Westray's body. Westray had fallen to his death down one of the three steep waterfalls in the upper reaches of the watercourse and his nearby grave is located in close proximity to the Christmas Creek walking track.

Bernard O'Reilly 's raised the alarm among local farmers and returned back up Christmas Creek with a rescue party journey, while other farmers blazed a trail to the crash site on the Stretcher Track, as Christmas Creek as deemed to difficult an evacuation route.

Bernard O'Reilly's original 36km journey from O'Reilly's Rainforest Guesthouse to the crash site and out via Christmas Creek can be completed as a guided one day or overnight walk. Peter and Tim O'Reilly (grandsons of the legendary Bernard) conduct these walks ranging from 8 - 36 km: http://www.oreillys.com.au/lamington-national-park/bushwalking/full-day-walks/. Other credible tour guides also conduct a variety of walks to the Stinson crash site from O'Reilly's and Christmas Creek: http://www.worthwild.com.au/adv/bushwalking/bushwalking.htm

The walk we describe below is the 8km return trip from Christmas Creek. This can easily be extended to 10km by incorporating Point Lookout, which is 2 km return beyond the Crash Site.

A further variation is to ascend via the Christmans Creek route and descend on the Stretcher Track which leads back to the Christmans Creek Memorial Park Campground. To avoid walking 5 uneventful kilometres from the Campground to the start of the Christmas Creek walk, a car pool can be arranged.

Hema Maps detail the walks into the Stinson Crash site quite well on their Lamington National Park map. These cost about $10 and are easily ordered through World Wide Maps in Edward St, Brisbane City: http://www.worldwidemaps.com.au/ Local postage cost is about $3.



LOCATION:

From Brisbane take the Mt Lindesay Highway south to Beaudesert (60 km). In Beaudesert turn right following the Rathdowney sign. After 15 km turn off th Mt Lindesay Highway into Christmas Creek Road at Laravale. Follow Christmas Creek Road for 30 km to the Christmas Creek Recreation Camp and the Stinson Memorial Park Campground. Gap Creek Road runs off to the south opposite the Recreational Camp and is used only if you are using the Stretcher Track.

Proceed along Christmas Creek Road which becomes a one lane dirt road after 1.5km. Proceed with care for a further 4 km crossing a small concrete bridge and parking in one of the two areas at the end of the road.

TRACK NOTES:

As indicated earlier the walk described is the 8km return Stinson Crash Site via Christmas Creek. This is easily extended to 10km by adding the 2km return to Point Lookout (1085m).

To make this a circuit walk there is the option of ascending on the Christmas Creek track to the Stinson Site and descending on the Stretcher Track. The section from the western end of the Stretcher Track to the end of Gap Creek Road is private property and permission must be gained to enter it via the Park Rangers. This is sometimes completed over 2 days using a campsite near the Stretcher Track turnoff (1110m).

When planning a walk in this area of Lamington it is always advisable to contact the Park Rangers to check local conditions, book campsites and ask about entering private property. Telephone: 07 5544 0634.

Stinson via Christmas Creek Return

Walk through the gate to the east of the carpark (340m) and continue on the track until it drops into Christmas Creek. Rock hop up the creek, crossing where safe to pick up the distinct track on the southern side. After heavy rain hikers often walk or shimmy across a massive log which provides access to the southern side of the creek. Another option is to cross back over the bridge near the carpark to pick up a rough track leading to the main footpad. Whatever option you use to start the main track is on the southern side of Christmas Creek and runs adjacent to it.

Minor deviations can be taken during the first 2 km which either connect back into the main track or become too thick to continue. If ever in doubt keep the creek on your left during this first phase and continue until encountering the sign to Westray's Grave, which is a short deviation from the main track. This area is quite a pleasant location for a break.

After returning to the main track from Westray's Grave (475m) the track swings steeply uphill for 700m in which 300m altitude is achieved (approx 40 degrees). This is the first good test of the fitness level of your group and any more than one stop on this section should be avoided, especially if you have started after 9am. As the vast majority of the walk is under the canopy the recommended finish time is no later than 5pm in summer and 4pm in winter as the forest does become dark well before sunset.

After the uphill slog the track flattens out considerably and a small scramble gives way to filtered ridgeline offering minimal views but the best on offer for the day. This is recommend as the second rest stop (755m).

After a brake continue on the well defined track for approximately 500 metres to where the vegitation becomes thinner and allows more filtered light onto the forest floor. From this point this section begins to become criss crossed with different variations on the same track. It is worth marking your route in this section to save time on the descent. Continue for 250 metres until a clearing is reached (985m) with three distinct tracks running off in different directions.

From the approach track to the clearing the left hand (northerly) track leads down to the remains of the Stinson. The track opposite (south west) leads to Point Lookout (1085m) and the main Border Ranges Track which winds for many kilometres along the top of the McPherson Range. This also connects with the Stretcher Track which can be used as a circuit back to Gap Creek Road at the western end of the National Park.

Due care must be taken in this section of the Park as it is easy to become temporarily bushwacked which wastes time and creates unnecessary emotional discomfort. Be sure to keep your group together at all times during this walk as visibility ranges from 50 metres at best down to 5 metres in some places. It's a good day out when everyone walks out. Lamington does not need anymore grave sites.

This route is a walk and no technical skills are required. As no ridgelines or serious scrambles come into play there is no real risk of injury due to falls. Threats are more likely to come in the form of a twisted ankles or becoming disorientated in thicker sections of the forest. Manage this risk by:

- checking local conditions with Rangers prior to departure

- take a topographic map and compass (and GPS)

- be adequately prepared with equipment and supplies to deal with unexpected variables

PROVISIONS:

To Wear:

* Hat
* Sunnies (optional)
* Good quality walking / running / hiking shoes in good condition.
* Gaiters are a useful addition


Hiking Pack: 35 - 45 litres is an ideal sized day-pack for this walk due to the thickness of the bush.

* 3l Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot)

* Food for snacks and lunch on the summit:
- Sizeable lunch of sandwiches / pasta / etc
- Muesli bars- Fruit (fresh or dried)
- Chocolate

* Basic First Aid Kit including:
- Sunscreen
- Insect repellent
- Bandaids
- Pressure bandage
- Elastic ankle support
- Paracetamol
- Personal medications
- Basic first aid book

* Topographic Map (1:25,000) and Compass

* Mobile Phone (fully charged)

* 10 metres of good quality rope

* Wet weather gear:
- Spray jacket with hood

* Cold weather gear:
- Space blanket
- Jacket
- Long trousers
- Beanie (head warmer)
- Gloves
- Flint or Matches (waterproof) in case of emergency

* Head lamp and Batteries

* Shovel and toilet paper

Optional Equipment:

* Camera & Batteries
* GPS
* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)HISTORY:

HISTORY:

The Internet is rich with information on Lamington National Park and the Stinson Crash. Some of the more useful links with original photographs and news articles include:

http://www.archives.qld.gov.au/research/stinson.asp
http://www.oreillys.com.au/about-us/o-reilly-s-story/the-stinson-rescue/http://lamington.nrsm.uq.edu.au/Documents/Other/stin.htm

This walk is popular with historians, aviators, defence force and emergency services personal probably due to the inspiration they gain from the effort of all involved in the survival and rescue. As scramblers who love nothing more than a clean climb up some nice rock slabs Lamington is not exactly our cup of tea, however it is worth doing a least once as a mark of respect to the courage shown by all involved during those 12 days in 1937.