Mt Bartle Frere, North Queensland

Mt Bartle Frere (1622m) is the tallest mountain in Queensland. The summit track is primarily a walk with little scrambling on offer

EPA sign near the Josephine Falls car park indicating the 7.5km definitive track to the summit

The vast majority of the walk is under the canopy, especially during the first 5km

Rod refueling at Majuba Creek (3km) before leeches move us on. Salt and repellent are essential items in an environment that averages over 4 metres of rain per annum

Jim at the helipad (7km) and adjacent evacuation hut and the first of three false summits above

Views from between the helipad and boulder field

Rod at the start of the boulder field, which is the highlight of the walk

Rob gains the eastern summit and the highest point in Queensland (1622m)

Rod seeking a view near the summit sign

Vista from 1622 metres. Most days the tropical humidity is responsible for rain or cloud severely limiting views

Upon return to the car park, Josephine Falls provides an excellent place to relax and soak some weary muscles.

DESCRIPTION:

The Mount Bartle Frere summit is the highest peak in Queensland (1622m) and located within the Wooroonooran National Park approximately 75km south of Cairns in North Queensland. The summit trail passes over the mountain in an east - west direction and a car shuffle would be required to complete this 15km walk. The most common summit route is a 15km return hike from the eastern side of the mountain commencing and concluding at the Josephine Falls Car Park. Both sides of the mountain are accessible by conventional vehicle, however a 4WD is required to reach the upper end of Gourka Road (to Junction Camp) on the western side.

Some track notes refer to camping either at Big Rock Camp, Broken Nose or the Eastern Summit Camp (helipad and evacuation hut). In our experience this is not necessary in good weather as completing both hikes either from east to west (Josephine Falls to Junction Camp) or the eastern return (starting and concluding at Josephine Falls) are quite achievable in 9 - 10 hours for those of above average fitness levels. Camping permits can be obtained on-line from www.qld.gov.au/camping or by Telephone: 13 13 04.

The average yearly rainfall regularly reaches four metres on the mountain and therefore sudden weather changes are normal in this region and must be considered in your preparation. The dry season (which is really the drier season) runs from April - September and is the recommended time for this hike.

See the Queensland Government Parks and Wildlife site for further information:
http://www.epa.qld.gov.au/parks_and_forests/find_a_park_or_forest/bartle_frere_trail_wooroonooran_national_park/

LOCATION:

The Bartle Frere trail can be accessed by road from the coast at Josephine Falls Car Park or from the west via the Atherton Tableland.

To access Josephine Falls from Cairns travel south on the Bruce Highway for 65km to Miriwinni. 2km south of Miriwinni turn right off the Bruce Highway onto Bartle Frere Road and proceed 8km to Josephine Falls. Access is by conventional vehicle.

To access to the western trail from Cairns travel south on the Bruce highway for 21km to Gordonvale. Turn right on the Gordonvale - Atherton Road (Gillies Highway) and proceed 38km to left turn into Wrights Creek Road. Follow for 6km through Lake Eacham looking for left turn into Topaz Road approximately 2-3km past Lake Eacham. Proceed on Topaz Road for 2km past Butchers Creek School taking left turn to Lamins Hill Lookout on Old Cairns Track which is a gravel road. Proceed for 300 metres turning left at the T junction (still on Old Cairns Track) and take the next turn right into Gourka Road.

Follow Gourka Road with care for 7km to the start of the Wooroonooran National Park boundary. Conventional vehicles should not proceed past this point. If visiting in the wet season, check road conditions beyond the park boundary by contacting the EPA as the road may be closed or suitable for 4WD vehicles only. 4WD vehicles may continue a further 2km to Junction Camp and the official start of the Western Track. The start of the Western Track is considerably higher (approximately 700 metre altitude) than the start of the eastern Josephine Falls Track (approximately 100 metres).

For information on the condition of Gourka Road, basic map, bushwalking registration contact the EPA: Web: http://www.epa.qld.gov.au/projects/park/index.cgi?parkid=125

Email: cic@epa.qld.gov.au or Telephone: 07 4067 6304

TRAIL NOTES:

The notes below refer to the 15km Josephine Falls return track. We did not attempt the Western Trail due to having only one vehicle available and one day to complete the walk.

As indicated through our blog preparation is critical for all hiking, and especially on Mt Bartle Frere. The challenge comes mainly in two forms; 1. the unrelenting 3.5km section from Big Rock Camp to the Eastern Summit Camp & 2. variable weather conditions in the form of heavy rainfall, reduced visibility from cloud and sudden temperature fluctuations.

The EPA advise the Josephine Falls trek is extremely demanding and should only be undertaken by experienced bushwalkers. They also recommended allowing two days for the ascent to the summit and back to either the east (Josephine Falls) or the west (Tablelands). We consider ourselves to be of average fitness* and were able to complete the walk in about 9 hours and enjoy a refreshing mid afternoon swim at Josephine Falls. (*based on a pace of 8 hours for the 16.5km South East Ridge - South Ridge circuit on Mt Barney which is fairly average).

The key is to get an early start.

Josephine Falls Track

Register at the information hut at the start of the walk (100m altitude) near the Josephine Falls Car Park and proceed on the wide track to Majuba Creek through the lowland rainforest. This first section should take approximately 1 hour and is a common first rest spot. Water can be refilled here if required.

From Majuba Creek the track narrows and becomes more steep and root bound as it winds gradually up to Big Rock Campsite. As scramblers (and occasional free climbers) we don't really get the attraction of camping at Big Rock as all the hard work is yet to come. There are also multiple nightmare tales from unsuspecting campers in this areas (usually in relation to bush rats and leeches) which is more reasons not to stop for the night.

From Big Rock a popular detour for campers is the lookout of Broken Nose (962m). We did not attempt this as we were pushing for the summit, however the option is there. This first section from the car park to Big Rock is relatively flat and only gains 400 metres over 3.5km.

Just above the Big Rock Campsite, Majuba Creek crosses the track for the last time providing another easy water access point. From here the track starts to increase considerably in gradient over the 3.5km to the Eastern Summit Camp (helipad and evacuation hut). 1 km orange markers can be seen along this section however were becoming dull due with weathering.

This section is really the grind of the hike, especially in wet weather, as it gains 1000 + metres in elevation in a distance of approximately 3.5km (about 28 degrees). The vegetation begins to thin in this section as you leave the rainforest floor, ascend through the foothills and on into the upland forest area of the Helipad & Evac Hut (approx. 14oom). Supplies in the Hut are for emergency purposes only and should not be raided simply because they are there. Consider making a deposit rather than a withdrawal.

From the Helipad follow the clear footpad through the boulder field and past a couple of false summits and up a final short push to the summit area. Exposure to elevation is not an issue on Bartle Frere as the track does not pass near any drop offs, however care does need to be taken in the boulder field especially in wet weather.

As the summit area is shrouded by shrubs, over the years hikers have scrambled 4-5 metres up a nearby tree in the hope of improving the outlook. As the tree has now been dead for years it is not recommend to climb it. On a clear day spectacular views are available to the Barrier Reef, Innisfail and the inland Tablelands. From the summit retrace your steps to Josephine Falls or continue on to the west.

PROVISIONS:

To Wear:

* Hat

* Sunnies (optional)

* Good quality walking / running / hiking shoes in good condition.

Hiking Pack: 45 - 50 litres is an ideal sized day-pack for Bartle Frere.

When camping include the basic listed below plus tent, ground sheet, sleeping mat, light sleeping bag and excellent repellent. Do not plan to carry anything in your hands.

To Carry in Hiking Pack:

*Topographic map & Compass

* 3L Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot). Consider packing some powdered electrolyte to stave off cramp.

* Food for snacks and lunch on the summit (consider packing more than you need for 1 day):

- Sizeable lunch of sandwiches / pasta / etc

- Muesli bars- Fruit (fresh or dried)

- Chocolate

- Salt (tasty with lunch and for leech removal)

* Basic First Aid Kit including:

- Sunscreen

- Insect repellent

- Bandaids

- Pressure bandage

- Elastic ankle support

- Paracetamol

- Personal medications

- Basic first aid book

* Mobile Phone (fully charged)

* Quality wet weather gear:

- Spray jacket with hood

* Cold weather gear:

- Space blanket

- Jacket

- Long trousers

- Beanie (head warmer)

- Gloves- Flint or Matches (waterproof) in case of emergency

* Head lamp and Batteries* Shovel and toilet paper

* Gaiters

Optional Equipment:

* Camera & Batteries

* GPS

* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)

HISTORY:

Without seeking to reinvent the wheel the following site contains some excellent information:

http://millaamillaafalls.com/campwalk/campwalk.htm

Bartle Frere forms part of the traditional lands of the Noongyanbudda Ngadjon people who refer to it as Chooreechillum. They have lived in this area for thousands of years and believed when they die their spirits were reborn to continue to watch over the people and the region.

In 1873 Europeans named the mountain after Sir Henry Bartle Frere (the British Governor of Cape Colony during the Zulu Wars and President of the Royal Geographical Society). The first recorded European to summit was Christie Palmerston in 1886, assisted by Noongyanbudda Ngadjon men.

Bartle Frere's immediate neighbour is Mt Bellenden Ker the second highest mountain in Queensland at 1,611 metres. In 1942 an American B-25 Mitchell medium range bomber crashed on the mountain with the loss of all seven crew members.

The eastern approach from Josephine Falls follows a rough track used in the 1890s by tin miners who worked a mining claim near the summit. Parts of the trail from the Atherton Tableland follow traditional Aboriginal walking tracks.

The Stinson Walk, South East Queensland

Caleb signing the log alongside a plague at the Stinson Crash Site

All that is left of the plane wreckage is a few twisted pieces of indistinguishable metal that might as well be a tractor.

DESCRIPTION:

Lamington National Park mainly consists of rough rainforest terrain with pockets of all sorts of noxious weeds such as the nasty Lawyer Vine. Most of the rain in the Park blows in from the ocean and so areas on the coastal side of the Park have a much higher annual rainfall than those to the west. Although the term jungle is not used commonly to describe the Australian bush, areas near the McPherson Range (the highest eastern points) within Lamington National Park are close as you will get, apart from the tropical regions of Northern Queensland.

As the Stinson crash site is 1 km to the north west of Point Lookout (1085m) on the McPherson Range, it is still quite close to the higher rainfall areas. Like much of Lamington, the walk in from Christmas Creek is mostly under the canopy through thick, steep and often wet bushland.

One reason for doing The Stinson Walk seems to be viewing the remains of the Stinson aircraft that crashed on 19 February 1937 while enroute from Brisbane to Sydney. If this is your primary motivation then you will probably be disappointed as 70 + years of erosion have taken a serious toll on its remains. A more enduring inspiration is to undertake the walk mindful of the courage, stamina and bushcraft of all involved in the subsequent rescue.

Nine days after the crash local resident Bernard O'Reilly set off to look for the wreckage and any survivors. He plotted a course based on a knowledge of the plane's flight path and his conviction that it had most likely struck one of the highest points along the McPherson Range and crashed in the surrounding dense bushland. He spent the first night sleeping rough and on the second day climbed Mt Throakban (1140m) from where he spotted evidence of a yellow patch in the forest that he concluded must have been a caused by fire. Using a high degree of bush sense he navigated 8km in around 8 hours to the crash site finding two survivors, John Proud and Joe Binstead.

They reported four men had died in the crash (including both pilots) and that a third survivor, Jim Westray had set off to fetch help by attempting to follow the upper tributaries of Christmas Creek out to the western farmlands below. As this was the shortest way out to raise the alarm, Bernard O'Reilly also used this route and tragically discovered Jim Westray's body. Westray had fallen to his death down one of the three steep waterfalls in the upper reaches of the watercourse and his nearby grave is located in close proximity to the Christmas Creek walking track.

Bernard O'Reilly 's raised the alarm among local farmers and returned back up Christmas Creek with a rescue party journey, while other farmers blazed a trail to the crash site on the Stretcher Track, as Christmas Creek as deemed to difficult an evacuation route.

Bernard O'Reilly's original 36km journey from O'Reilly's Rainforest Guesthouse to the crash site and out via Christmas Creek can be completed as a guided one day or overnight walk. Peter and Tim O'Reilly (grandsons of the legendary Bernard) conduct these walks ranging from 8 - 36 km: http://www.oreillys.com.au/lamington-national-park/bushwalking/full-day-walks/. Other credible tour guides also conduct a variety of walks to the Stinson crash site from O'Reilly's and Christmas Creek: http://www.worthwild.com.au/adv/bushwalking/bushwalking.htm

The walk we describe below is the 8km return trip from Christmas Creek. This can easily be extended to 10km by incorporating Point Lookout, which is 2 km return beyond the Crash Site.

A further variation is to ascend via the Christmans Creek route and descend on the Stretcher Track which leads back to the Christmans Creek Memorial Park Campground. To avoid walking 5 uneventful kilometres from the Campground to the start of the Christmas Creek walk, a car pool can be arranged.

Hema Maps detail the walks into the Stinson Crash site quite well on their Lamington National Park map. These cost about $10 and are easily ordered through World Wide Maps in Edward St, Brisbane City: http://www.worldwidemaps.com.au/ Local postage cost is about $3.

LOCATION:

From Brisbane take the Mt Lindesay Highway south to Beaudesert (60 km). In Beaudesert turn right following the Rathdowney sign. After 15 km turn off th Mt Lindesay Highway into Christmas Creek Road at Laravale. Follow Christmas Creek Road for 30 km to the Christmas Creek Recreation Camp and the Stinson Memorial Park Campground. Gap Creek Road runs off to the south opposite the Recreational Camp and is used only if you are using the Stretcher Track.

Proceed along Christmas Creek Road which becomes a one lane dirt road after 1.5km. Proceed with care for a further 4 km crossing a small concrete bridge and parking in one of the two areas at the end of the road.

TRACK NOTES:

As indicated earlier the walk described is the 8km return Stinson Crash Site via Christmas Creek. This is easily extended to 10km by adding the 2km return to Point Lookout (1085m).

To make this a circuit walk there is the option of ascending on the Christmas Creek track to the Stinson Site and descending on the Stretcher Track. The section from the western end of the Stretcher Track to the end of Gap Creek Road is private property and permission must be gained to enter it via the Park Rangers. This is sometimes completed over 2 days using a campsite near the Stretcher Track turnoff (1110m).

When planning a walk in this area of Lamington it is always advisable to contact the Park Rangers to check local conditions, book campsites and ask about entering private property. Telephone: 07 5544 0634.

Stinson via Christmas Creek Return

Walk through the gate to the east of the carpark (340m) and continue on the track until it drops into Christmas Creek. Rock hop up the creek, crossing where safe to pick up the distinct track on the southern side. After heavy rain hikers often walk or shimmy across a massive log which provides access to the southern side of the creek. Another option is to cross back over the bridge near the carpark to pick up a rough track leading to the main footpad. Whatever option you use to start the main track is on the southern side of Christmas Creek and runs adjacent to it.

Minor deviations can be taken during the first 2 km which either connect back into the main track or become too thick to continue. If ever in doubt keep the creek on your left during this first phase and continue until encountering the sign to Westray's Grave, which is a short deviation from the main track. This area is quite a pleasant location for a break.

After returning to the main track from Westray's Grave (475m) the track swings steeply uphill for 700m in which 300m altitude is achieved (approx 40 degrees). This is the first good test of the fitness level of your group and any more than one stop on this section should be avoided, especially if you have started after 9am. As the vast majority of the walk is under the canopy the recommended finish time is no later than 5pm in summer and 4pm in winter as the forest does become dark well before sunset.

After the uphill slog the track flattens out considerably and a small scramble gives way to filtered ridgeline offering minimal views but the best on offer for the day. This is recommend as the second rest stop (755m).

After a brake continue on the well defined track for approximately 500 metres to where the vegitation becomes thinner and allows more filtered light onto the forest floor. From this point this section begins to become criss crossed with different variations on the same track. It is worth marking your route in this section to save time on the descent. Continue for 250 metres until a clearing is reached (985m) with three distinct tracks running off in different directions.

From the approach track to the clearing the left hand (northerly) track leads down to the remains of the Stinson. The track opposite (south west) leads to Point Lookout (1085m) and the main Border Ranges Track which winds for many kilometres along the top of the McPherson Range. This also connects with the Stretcher Track which can be used as a circuit back to Gap Creek Road at the western end of the National Park.

Due care must be taken in this section of the Park as it is easy to become temporarily bushwacked which wastes time and creates unnecessary emotional discomfort. Be sure to keep your group together at all times during this walk as visibility ranges from 50 metres at best down to 5 metres in some places. It's a good day out when everyone walks out. Lamington does not need anymore grave sites.

This route is a walk and no technical skills are required. As no ridgelines or serious scrambles come into play there is no real risk of injury due to falls. Threats are more likely to come in the form of a twisted ankles or becoming disorientated in thicker sections of the forest. Manage this risk by:

- checking local conditions with Rangers prior to departure

- take a topographic map and compass (and GPS)

- be adequately prepared with equipment and supplies to deal with unexpected variables

PROVISIONS:

To Wear:

* Hat
* Sunnies (optional)
* Good quality walking / running / hiking shoes in good condition.
* Gaiters are a useful addition

Hiking Pack: 35 - 45 litres is an ideal sized day-pack for this walk due to the thickness of the bush.

* 3l Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot)

* Food for snacks and lunch on the summit:
- Sizeable lunch of sandwiches / pasta / etc
- Muesli bars- Fruit (fresh or dried)
- Chocolate

* Basic First Aid Kit including:
- Sunscreen
- Insect repellent
- Bandaids
- Pressure bandage
- Elastic ankle support
- Paracetamol
- Personal medications
- Basic first aid book

* Topographic Map (1:25,000) and Compass

* Mobile Phone (fully charged)

* 10 metres of good quality rope

* Wet weather gear:
- Spray jacket with hood

* Cold weather gear:
- Space blanket
- Jacket
- Long trousers
- Beanie (head warmer)
- Gloves
- Flint or Matches (waterproof) in case of emergency

* Head lamp and Batteries

* Shovel and toilet paper

Optional Equipment:

* Camera & Batteries
* GPS
* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)HISTORY:

HISTORY:

The Internet is rich with information on Lamington National Park and the Stinson Crash. Some of the more useful links with original photographs and news articles include:

http://www.archives.qld.gov.au/research/stinson.asp
http://www.oreillys.com.au/about-us/o-reilly-s-story/the-stinson-rescue/http://lamington.nrsm.uq.edu.au/Documents/Other/stin.htm

This walk is popular with historians, aviators, defence force and emergency services personal probably due to the inspiration they gain from the effort of all involved in the survival and rescue. As scramblers who love nothing more than a clean climb up some nice rock slabs Lamington is not exactly our cup of tea, however it is worth doing a least once as a mark of respect to the courage shown by all involved during those 12 days in 1937.

Mt Kinabalu, Sabah, East Malaysia

Rob and Jim outside the open air satay restaurant in Kandasang, Sabah in the foothills of Mt Kinabalu

Dusk the night before the ascent at the Kinabalu Pine Resort.

The Timpohon Gate track is the most direct way route up Kinabalu at 17.5 km return (see Track Notes below). The track is wide and well maintained with at least 200 people (tourists, guides and porters) ascending and descending each day

Jim, Caleb & Rob at Laban Rata guesthouse (3272 metres) with a glimpse of the expansive summit area that waits the next day. Laban Rata is the overnight accommodation used by most hikers prior to the summit ascent the following day


Typical dormitory style bunk bed in Laban Rata. Rooms are often shared with other hikers and and vary in size from 4 to 12 beds. Accommodation is simple but comfortable

On the first level of Laban Rata is the restaurant, dining room and check-in desk.

Laban Rata is a home in the clouds perched on the side of a BIG mountain.


A snapshot of the hundreds of hectares of granite that await the next morning. The summit is 2.7 km from Laban Rata and takes the average hiker about 3 hours.

5:45am Sunrise on Low's Peak 4,095 metres
From Low's Peak looking toward Donkey Ears and the return route to Laban Rata

Donkey Ears with accompanying 8am cloud. Guided summit attempts always commence early to take advantage of any views on offer.
Cousin Gerald from Kuala Lumpur not far from the finish line of the Timpohon Gate.

DESCRIPTION:

At 4095 metres (13,432 feet) Mt Kinabalu has been described as the easiest high mountain to summit. It is one of the three tallest mountains between Australia and the Himalaya, outside of Mount Wilhelm in Paupa New Guinea (4,509 m/14,790 ft) and the challenging Mount Carstensz in West Papua (formerly Irain Jaya) 4,884 metres / 16,023ft.

Any adult with reasonable fitness, agility and stamina is able to successfully hike up Mt Kinabalu as no technical skills are required. Activities within the World Heritage listed Kinabalu National Park are highly regulated by the Malaysian government and the private management consortium (Sutera Sanctuary Lodges: link under Track Notes) which operate the guest accommodation buildings. Hikers must be accompanied by a guide at all times on the mountain and there is a natural expectation to stay overnight in the accommodation facilities provided at approximately 3,300 metres (the end of the first stage of the 6 km hike). Laban Rata is the largest of these plywood buildings which containers a restaurant (first floor) and dormitory style accommodation (second floor).

The Mount Kinabalu summit walk is very popular and limited to approximately 60 tourists per day. Bookings must be made months in advance to ensure you get the days you require. The popular months are from May - September as the rainy season commences from October greatly reducing the possibility of summiting. The rainy season sets in during December, January, February and booking the summit walk during these months is a gamble as the mountain is often closed.

Booking agents offer the mountain hike as package deals which includes as standard a climbing permit, insurance, guide (compulsory), accommodation, buffet dinner and breakfast at the restaurant in Laban Rata. In April 2008 the approximate cost for this package was $385 Malaysian Ringgit ($140 Australian) per person. Other expenses should be allowed for return transportation to the mountain (can be arranged through hotels in the Kinabalu National Park area), porter fees (usually your guide will act as the porter carrying up to 10 kg) and transportation to Timpohon Gate which is the official start of the walk.

Excellent information on the Mt Kinabalu hike and general information can be accessed from these links:
http://www.mount-kinabalu-borneo.com/index.html &
http://www.climbmtkinabalu.com/index.html

The North Face of Mt Kinabalu also boasts the world’s highest via ferrata (iron road) which began operating in 2007. A via ferrata is a man make construction of cables, rungs and footholds which open up isolated scrambling and climbing routes to hikers. Clients receive basic instruction on how to properly wear the harness and use other safety equipment which is attached to steel cables offering excellent protection. No technical skills are required.

Mountain Torq Via Ferrata are continuing to add additional routes with their premium experience being the 4-5 hour Low’s Peak Circuit. If you are considering this route it may be wise book local accommodation at the base of the mountain for the end of the day as a 2am start with 3 hour summit ascent, 5 hour via ferrata and 5 hour descent adds up to a big day out. Check out their website at http://www.mountaintorq.com/

LOCATION:

Kinabalu National Park is situated 90 km from Kota Kinabalu (KK), the capital of Sabah in East Malaysia. KK is vibrant city and wonderful holiday destination due to its close proximity to spectacular islands which are a haven for deep sea diving, snorkeling, island resorts and excellent seafood.

Air Asia provides the cheapest fares to KK from anywhere in south east Asia including Singarore, Malaysia or Brunei. Air Asia fly direct from Perth, Melbourne and the Gold Coast to Kuala Lumpur (West Malaysia) usually with reasonable same day connections through to KK. Royal Brunei Airlines is the main budget carrier from Australia to the UK and stops to refuel in Brunei. Often well priced fares to Brunei can be obtained on this route, which is closer (and therefore cheaper) to Kota Kinabalu than Kuala Lumpur. Expect to pay around $600 for a return flight from the Gold Coast to Kuala Lumpur on Air Asia. http://booking.airasia.com/skylights/cgi-bin/skylights.cgi

TRACK NOTES:

There are two guided routes on Mt Kinabalu. The 17.5km Tourist Route (as detailed briefly below) and the more challenging Mesilau Route which is approximately 4 km longer and commences from the Mesilau Nature Resort in the Upper Kundasang Valley and 100 km from Kota Kinabalu. Mesilau Resort, Kinabalu Park and Laban Rata are all managed by the Sutera Sanctury Lodges consortium. Their website provides valuable information about accommodation options in the mountains and on the coast http://www.suterasanctuarylodges.com.my/v2/labanrata.html. NOTE: Mini-Bus transfer fees quoted by this site are cheaper than those in the Day 1 Itinerary below as you have to wait for others staying in their accommodation venues to fill the bus before going anywhere which can waste quite a bit of time.

The Timpohon Gate Tourist route is recommended for first time hikers to Kinabalu. A suggested basic itinerary is outlined below:

Day 1

Fly into Kota Kinabalu and take a bus transfer to a hotel near the Kinabalu National Park. Perkasa Hotel Mt Kinabalu charge $300 Malaysian Ringgit ($110 Australian) to hire a personal mini bus and driver for transfers from KK to the hotel which includes all other drop offs and pick ups inside the National Park. A Twin Room at the Perkasa Hotel costs $170 Malaysian Ringgit ($63 Australian). Have dinner at the hotel or walk down to the local village of Kundasang to check out the night life.

Accommodation is also available inside Kinabalu National Park (managed by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges) and at other local hotels.

Day 2

6am Breakfast at the hotel and transfer to Park Headquarters (1,563 m) to register for the hike where you will be issued with an ID name tag which must be worn at all times. You can start later but it is best to avoid the 7:30am - 9:00am busy period. Bus drop off at Timpohon Gate (1866 m) with the guide and start the 6 km hike to the accommodation facility of Laban Lata (3,272 m). It is not uncommon for hikers from low altitude environments to experience headaches and shortness of breath from the 5km mark (near the lower helipad at 3,051m). This can ease off or persist until this point on the descent the next day.

With an early start Laban Rata is usually achieved by early to mid afternoon. Other accommodation facilities including Panar Laban & Gunting Lagadan may be booked and are quieter than Laban Rata. Spend the afternoon packing a small pack for the next day and looking around before dinner and an early night. Ear plugs are recommended as the kitchen staff and other hikers are very noisy by Western standards.

Day 3

2 am is the standard wake up for the summit departure. The mountain in generally clearer in the morning before tropical cloud begins to close in and hinders view from the summit from 9am on. If heavy rain is forecast the summit walk will be cancelled and hikers usually return to bed before waking to breakfast and the descent. This is simply par for the course when hiking on a high mountain - no guarantees are given for personal ability or suitability of weather.

The 2.7 km summit walk from Laban Rata is undertaken with headlamps, ID tag and guides. The ID tag is important as you will not be allowed to climb higher than a check point at 3670 metres if you do not have it. Most guides aim to depart Laban Rata between 2:30am - 3:00am to give their group the best chance of being on the summit of Low's Peak (4,095m) for sunrise. Low's Peak is usually attained between 5:30am - 6:00am.

Most groups spend around 1 hour on the summit area and depart about 7am for the descent to Laban Rata for breakfast and to pack the remainder of the equipment left in their room. Some guides may be keen to have less time on the summit as this gets them home a little earlier that day. If this occurs just keep telling them 'A little longer' until the main hiking group has departed between 7am - 7:30am. Departure from Laban Rata by 9am should see most groups off the mountain by early to mid afternoon.

Some people opt to travel back to KK that afternoon, however if possible plan to spend another night or two in the Kundasang area to enjoy the local food and culture. The satay and coffee in this area of Malaysia are especially good as it is one of a few places where local cattle are kept.

In our experience the local Malay staff are very friendly and have a service orientated nature. The guides are paid about $RM70 ($25 Australian) by the government for 2 days of following tourists on the mountain and will usually have a wife and 2-4 kids to feed back home in the village. Consider tipping your guide and driver generously.

HISTORY:

The local Malays trace their history back at least 800 years and as the highest place in a region, Mt Kinabalu is surrounded by myth and legend which is still respected (and revered) by many locals today. Like most high places in the world it is regarded as sacred by those who live in its shadows and foothills. The following site contains some useful references to the legends and history of the mountain http://www.mount-kinabalu-borneo.com/index.html

Upon hearing we were climbing Mt Kinabalu an extended family member who lives in Sarawak told me to ensure we respected everything on the mountain including the spirits of the rocks and trees. He works as an engineer for a multi national oil company and is married to a teacher. Local beliefs are to be considered, even if they are different from your own.

EMAIL ME WITH ANY QUESTION OR COMMENTS

Girraween National Park, South East Queensland

The Base of the First Pyramid from the end of the approach track. Any self respecting hiker should be able to walk straight up it in a few minutes.

Rob demonstrates the gradient which flattens out toward the summit. The First Pyramid is an easy scramble but lots of fun.

The famous Balancing Rock with the Second Pyramid in the background. The Second Pyramid is considerably more difficult than the First and should only be attempted by experienced scramblers in fine weather.

Jim sussing out a route up the Second Pyramid from the Northern end.

Looking west to the First Pyramid from the summit of the Second. Balancing rock is third from the left - photo taken by Caleb.

DESCRIPTION:

Girraween National Park is holy ground for the adventure community of south east Queensland and legendary within rockclimbing circles. Located high on the New England Tablelands (average elevation of 900 metres) and close to the New South Wales border, Girraween's climate is more like those of the cooler southern states than the humidity often associated with Queensland. Temperatures can sometimes exceed 30° Celsius in summer (December - February) however the area is predictably cold in winter by Australian standards with average daily temperatures ranging from 3-15° Celsius with minimums as low as -8 deg.

The average yearly rainfall at the park ranger quarters is 850mm. Most rain falls in Summer and early Autumn, but Winter rainfall is relatively high. The Spring months (September to November) are regarded is the optimum time to visit, but any time of the year is suitable for well prepared campers with good quality cold weather equipment (esp. tent, thermals and sleeping bag). As a general rule do not camp in Girraween past Easter each year (April) if you do not have good cold weather gear.

Cold weather may lead to an uncomfortable night in Girra but it is hardly likely to kill you. What is potentially more terminal is wet weather (including heavy fog or sleet) on the exposed granite surfaces of the Second Pyramid and Mt Norman. Even the relatively tame first Pyramid should be avoided during inclement weather. Check local weather forecasts and conditions before travelling to the park at www.weatherzone.com.au/ or http://mirror.bom.gov.au/weather/radar/.

Girraween contains the two camping areas of Castle Rock and Bald Rock Creek which are located quite close together. Information and camp site booking can be obtained from 13 13 04 or http://www.epa.qld.gov.au/parks_and_forests/find_a_park_or_forest/girraween_national_park/girraween_national_park__camping_information

Interstate travellers tend to use either of these camping grounds as a stopover during long journeys. Do not be surprised to hear motor homes and campers entering the park late at night. It is not uncommon to go to sleep in an isolated section in the camp ground and wake in the centre of a village. Ear plugs are recommended if tent camping.

LOCATION:

Girraween National Park is located 260km south-west of Brisbane just north of the Queensland-NSW border. From Brisbane take the Ipswich Motorway and turn off to the left on the Cunningham Highway to Warwick. Follow the Cunningham Highway into Warwick (120 km) and turn right in Wood Street / Cunningham Highway. After 1.5 km take a left turn to Stanthorpe on the New England Highway. The highway bypasses Stanthorpe (58 km) and the turnoff to Pyramids Road is located 25 km past Stanthorpe. Travel along Pyramids Road for 7km and follow the signs to either Castle Rock camp ground, Bald Rock Creek camp ground or the nearby Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area 100 meres further along Pyramids Road. The Pyramids are easily located from each of these areas.

Mt. Norman can be negotiated as a walk from the southern end of the Castle Rock camp ground (10.4 km return) which passes Castle Rock. Conventional vehicle access to the Mt Norman Day Use Area is obtained by driving into Wallangara to the south. From the Mt Norman Day Use Area the approach track to Mt Norman is only 2km (4km return).

From Girraween drive east along Pyramids Road toward the New England Highway. Take a left turn on Old Wallangar road which joins the New England Highway further south. Turn left at Wallangara into Margetts Road following 'Country Fresh' signs which is the local abattoir. At the T junction at the end of Margetts road take a left turn and then a right turn over a train bridge and another left into Woodlawn Street. Take the second turn on the right into Merawa Street which becomes Mt Norman Road. At the T junction at the end of Mt Norman Road take a left turn and follow it to the Mt Norman Day Use Area. Conventional vehicles are able to access the Day Use Area with care however do not proceed beyond this point unless you have a high clearance 4WD. Facilities in the Day Use Area consist of a couple of picnic tables and a composting toilet.

TRACK NOTES:

A number of walking tracks exist in Girraween including The Junction swimming area (5 km return), Castle Rock (5 km return), The Sphinx and Turtle Rock (7.4 km return). We are into scrambling rather than bushwalking and so provide track notes only for The Pyramids and Mt Norman.

NOTE: Bald Rock Creek and Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area in Girraween, Queensland are not to be confused with Bald Rock (1277 metres) located in the neighbouring Bald Rock National Park in New South Wales. Bald Rock is the largest granite composite rock in Australia and is most easily accessed from the Mount Lindesay Highway in NSW. The turn off to Bald Rock is on Bald Rock Road at Carrolls Creek 29 km north of Tentrerfield.

The Pyramids

The Queensland Parks & Wildlife suggest the climb to the summit of the Second Pyramid should only be undertaken by experienced rock climbers. Our experience is that confident scramblers are able to summit with caution and respect.

The First Pyramid is a 3.4 km return walk from the Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area. The approach track is well sign posted and of a very pedestrian gradient. The First Pyramid is little more than a steep walk but should not be attempted in wet weather. Balancing Rock and views east to the Second Pyramid are the summit highlights. If your party has any difficulty ascending the first Pyramid do not attempt to climb the Second Pyramid.

To access the Second Pyramid descend east from the summit of the First Pyramid on a clearly defined track. When this becomes uncomfortably steep veer to the north (left) for 20 metres looking for a wide crack packed with man made aids (tree trunk and branches) to assist the 5 metre descent to the ground. From this point walk north on a scrubby defined track for 250 metres looking toward the Second Pyramid until an accessible access point is attained on the base of the scramble.

There is no visible track on the Second Pyramid as it is all rock and care must be taken on the ascent to note some clear landmarks for the return journey, especially near the summit. The EPA advise considerable rockclimbing experience is necessary to scale it but confident scramblers are able to summit with care.

A more direct access route to the Second Pyramid is gained by walking in from Pyramids Road. This route does not involve summiting the First Pyramid. Continue driving past the Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area for approximately 1.5km until a 4WD track turn off to the left. Park a conventional vehicle in this area and continue walking for 400 metres up the 4WD track branching off to the west at the dead end. A large granite area provides short lived access before dropping back into the scrub for 500 metres aiming for the northern end of the Second Pyramid.

Mt Norman

From the southern end of the Castle Rock Camping Area, Mount Norman is a 10 km return Class 3 and 4 walk. If you are into bushwalking this is fine however a more direct 4 km return access is attained from the Mt Norman Day Use Area, as explained under LOCATION.

From the Day Use Area walk up the old fire road access track to the rocky slabs providing access to the southern end of Mount Norman. At the base proceed briefly to west (left) before wrapping around to the north for 150 metres looking for a prominent crack in the rock which is the summit scramble access point. If you continue walking past the access crack you will come to The Eye of the Needle on Mount Norman's northern face.

At the top of the 6- 8 metre access crack proceed with caution along a ledge until the track winds up past a prominent tree. Care must be taken in this section, especially on the descent as a slip here may result in a 25 metre plunge to the base. From the tree continue up two gradual but tight chimneys until the southern summit is attained. Crossing to the northern summit section involves two short leaps onto curved rock surfaces. The Northern Summit is regarded as the highest point.

Again the EPA warn that the final approach to the summit is steep and rock climbing experience is needed to reach the absolute top.

PROVISIONS:

To Wear:
* Hat
* Sunnies (optional)
* Good quality walking / running / hiking shoes in good condition.

Hiking Pack: 35 - 45 litres is an ideal sized day-pack for the Pyramids and Mt Maroon. This may sound like overkill to some but preparation is a good thing. Calling emergency services to rescue a hiker with a sprained ankle or dehydration is uncool.

* 2l Water (minimum or more if you drink a lot)
* Food for snacks and lunch on the summit:
- Muesli bars- Fruit (fresh or dried)
- Chocolate

* Basic First Aid Kit including:
- Sunscreen
- Insect repellent
- Bandaids
- Pressure bandage
- Elastic ankle support
- Paracetamol
- Personal medications
- Basic first aid book

* Mobile Phone (fully charged) Generally good reception with Telstra 3G network.

* 10 metres (minimum) of good quality rope

* Wet weather gear:
- Spray jacket with hood

* Cold weather gear:
- Space blanket
- Jacket
- Long trousers
- Beanie (head warmer)
- Gloves
- Flint or Matches (waterproof) in case of emergency

* Head lamp and Batteries

Optional Equipment:
* Gaiters
* Camera & Batteries
* GPS
* Change of shirt / clothes for the return car ride (to leave in the car)

HISTORY:

Girraween is adapted from an Aboriginal word meaning a place of flowers which is evidence of the spectacular spring wildflower displays which bloom from late July through to October.

Aboriginals have lived in the area for countless generations and explorer Allan Cunningham first entered the Girraween area in 1827. In the 1840s Robert Mackenzie settled in the Girraween area and attempted logging, dairying, beef cattle, grazing sheep and fruit trees.

Dr Spencer Roberts of Stanthorpe made the first submission to Parliament for the area to receive National Park status which was eventually granted in the 1930s.

As recently as 1980 the Park was enlarged to its present 11, 800 capacity of hectares. As mentioned in the introduction Girraween is legendary among rock climbers Australia wide and is a must do for scramblers and other adventurers.